Auto Trader or Ebay
by: Cherie Szilvagyi
For Auto Dealers across the nation, today’s market is getting harder and harder to handle. Sales are seeing a downturn after such a long up swing in the market. To counteract the ever increasing expense of running and maintaining a profitable dealership, dealers need to be savvy in today’s market.
New trends are emerging in today’s market. Down turn markets always seem to bring out the new ideas and help to hone them. Internet sales, once a hard to handle and mysterious market, are on the upswing. Sites like Ebay and Auto Trader are actually selling cars. In fact they are both selling so many cars that it is getting impossible to ignore selling online. With Auto Trader and Ebay Motors doing over half of the online sales for vehicles, it is apparent that dealers are figuring out how to sell online with the help of these emerging two giants.
The ease and success of selling online has been evolving and today’s savvy dealer is using both Ebay and Auto Trader to boost sales and gain profit margin in an ever tightening market. The conventional newspaper advertisement is being replaced on the advertising budget with an online sales budget. Sales percentages are showing that they are dollars well spent.
Some dealers have gone so far as to hire and train their own internet department. Other dealers are taking the smart way and hiring a consulting firm that is well versed in online sales. Whether the dealer is handling online sales in house or hiring it out, the bottom line is the same, better use of the advertising dollar.
Conventional newspaper advertisements have less than 4 people look at a particular vehicle. Most people are not even looking at the auto advertisements; they are reading the paper for something else. 11% of all buyers attribute the Internet as the source that led them to the vehicle they purchased versus 9% for newspapers. Internet customers are looking for a vehicle when they look online. Could this be why so many are purchasing online?
Ecommerce for the Auto Dealer is becoming more and more necessary. Being an expert in selling cars and being an internet expert is no longer necessary. Hiring a consultant firm that is both reasonable in fees and knowledgeable in online auto sales is becoming a must for the successful auto dealer. Consulting firms for online sales work after the dealer closes for the day and provides sales support 7 days a week. Helping the dealer to sell online even when they are closed.
Checking out references and sell through percentages is necessary when choosing your internet consulting firm. Consider which venues they sell on and are familiar with. Auto Trader is responsible for 35% of the cars sold online, Ebay is responsible for 22% of the cars sold online. With over half of the market, the online consulting firm a dealer hires needs to be well versed in both.
Today’s market demands the best for online sales from auto dealers.
About The Author
Cherie Szilvagyi is the CEO of www.AutomobileClearingHouse.com
cherie@automobileclearinghouse.com
This article was posted on January 17, 2005
duminică, 25 decembrie 2011
More Hybrid SUVs in 2005
More Hybrid SUVs in 2005
by: Jenny McLane
It is common knowledge among car enthusiasts and car owners that the bigger the vehicle, the bigger the amount of fuel it consumes. With this in mind, several automobile producers have begun diverting a big chunk of their efforts to producing more hybrid 4x4s in the year 2005.
Taking on the Fleet First. The big three - Ford, Dodge and General Motors have seemed to agree that 2005 is the perfect opportunity to introduce the hybrid versions of some very popular vehicles.
Ford Introduces the Ford Escape Hybrid, the first vehicle to combine SUV capability with the outstanding fuel economy and low environmental impact of a full hybrid. "Full" hybrid means it automatically switches between pure electric power, pure gasoline or diesel engine power or a combined operation to optimize efficiency and performance. The no frills Escape Hybrid drives normally, performs superbly and offers all the features you'd expect from the SUV leader. The Hybrid Ford Escape features lots of room, comfortable seating for five, an adaptable cargo area, 1000-pound towing capacity, and an optional Intelligent 4WD System which produces the same all-weather grip and off-road competence available in conventional Escape models.
Full hybrids can achieve 50% or more improvement in fuel economy during traffic induced stop-and-go type of driving, wherein the electric motor is most efficient. The Escape Hybrid delivers more than 75% fuel economy improvement in city driving when weighed against a conventional V-6 powered Escape XLT. The Escape Hybrid can travel more than 400 miles in city driving on a single tank of gasoline.
Ford has already manufactured and sold the 4,000 units Ford Escape Hybrid in 2004 and its resounding success has prompted it to build a “modest” 20,000 more for 2005. Ford wants to make sure it is not just a fad and people would see the practical, economical and environmental impact a Hybrid vehicle can induce. The Escape Hybrid costs $3,300 more than the V-6 powered Escape.
Dodge and General Motors follow suit. Ford has been the first to produce and set the bar in the large vehicle Hybrid market segment and Dodge and GM cannot afford to lag behind. General Motors and Dodge are not that far behind though. In the last quarter of 2004, General Motors introduced electric hybrid versions of its 2005 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra pickups. The trucks were only available to those who are in Florida, California, Nevada, Alaska, Oregon, and Washington. GM expects to produce about 2,500 units in 2005 - 1,875 Silverados and 625 Sierras - with the hopes of launching the vehicles on a national scale by 2006. Dodge manufactured only 100 diesel-electric 2005 RAM pickups, targeted for utility company fleets. The diesel will produce better fuel economy, with an additional 15% mpg boost over the conventional diesel Ram coming from the electric side. Diesels are generally considered more “environmentally disastrous” on the ecological front. The Dodge Ram Diesel Hybrid is expected to sell for around $40,000 a somewhat larger cost than the non-hybrid models.
Heftier Price Tags. Although the price tags may vary from state to state, the average increase for the cost for a Hybrid option may run well up to $3,000. The GM versions of the Hybrid engine are soft-hybrids, which mean that an electric motor provides a boost up on accelerations. The GM version of a hybrid large vehicle has a stop-start system that turns off the gasoline engine at traffic lights. It possesses a 120-volt, 2,400-watt generator system that can provide power for electrical equipments. The Silverado and Sierra hybrids also serves as power generators, with two conventional, three-prong plug-ins that can be found under the rear seat, two extra plug-ins can also be found in the rear bed of the trucks. The four 120-volt, 20 amp electrical supplementary power outlets can supply power for electric coolers, electric ranges, sound systems video consoles and other electrical equipments that can be lugged around. The power supply can be utilized while the engine is running or even after the engine is cut and the keys are taken out of the ignition. Ground fault detection systems are installed in the power supply circuits so that overloads and short circuits can be prevented. According to General Motors, the new hybrid pickups could sustain enough power to last for up to 32 hours non-stop before needing to fill the tank again. This function new feature proved to be very useful when GM loaned some of their new Hybrids’ to hurricane stricken Florida when they were used for some relief operations, they were vital in some areas were electricity was incapacitated. The hybrid models of the Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra trucks are foreseen to develop fuel savings of up to 10% over analogous trucks without the hybrid benefit.
How exactly do Hybrids get such Fantastic Mileage?
HV’s (Hybrid Vehicles) are principally powered by an internal combustion engine, much like any ordinary vehicles. However, they also transform the energy that is normally wasted during stop and go operations into electricity, which is stored in a battery until the moment it is needed by the electric motor. The electric motor is utilized to support the engine when accelerating or doing some uphill driving and in low-speed driving operations where internal combustion engines are least efficient. Some Hybrid Vehicles also automatically shut off the engine when the vehicle is idling and restarts the internal combustion engine when the accelerator is depressed. This avoids exhausted fuel when the vehicle is not in motion. Unlike all-electric vehicles, HV’s that are being produced today do not need to be plugged into an external source of electricity to be recharged, the energy provided by the engine and the braking force charges the batteries.
Is it worth the fuss and the costs? It all boils down to one thing, Large Hybrid Vehicles cost more than their non-hybrid counterparts. Deciding on the advantages though is not that hard. You get better mileage, companies save on fuel consumption, electric motors are all the rage plus you get to help the environment. Also, the hybrid SUV’s pay for themselves in the long run, costs may be cut through tax incentives and decreased fuel consumption help to offset the price difference. Determining the cost-savings ratio would be one factor many car manufacturers will keep in mind while keeping close scrutiny in their products. Nevertheless a large hybrid vehicle may just be the thing the future needs.
About The Author
Parts Train has been a leader in the online parts supplying industry for many years now. They have over 25 years of experience in dealing with cars and have been regarded as experts in their field. Available in their wide array of stocks are a variety of products that can help maintain, enhance, replace and repair any make and model of vehicle available in the market today.
Call their toll-free hotline, 1-888-251-1214 for all your inquiries and comments. At partstrain.com they guarantee perfect fit and excellent quality.
This article was posted on January 14, 2005
by: Jenny McLane
It is common knowledge among car enthusiasts and car owners that the bigger the vehicle, the bigger the amount of fuel it consumes. With this in mind, several automobile producers have begun diverting a big chunk of their efforts to producing more hybrid 4x4s in the year 2005.
Taking on the Fleet First. The big three - Ford, Dodge and General Motors have seemed to agree that 2005 is the perfect opportunity to introduce the hybrid versions of some very popular vehicles.
Ford Introduces the Ford Escape Hybrid, the first vehicle to combine SUV capability with the outstanding fuel economy and low environmental impact of a full hybrid. "Full" hybrid means it automatically switches between pure electric power, pure gasoline or diesel engine power or a combined operation to optimize efficiency and performance. The no frills Escape Hybrid drives normally, performs superbly and offers all the features you'd expect from the SUV leader. The Hybrid Ford Escape features lots of room, comfortable seating for five, an adaptable cargo area, 1000-pound towing capacity, and an optional Intelligent 4WD System which produces the same all-weather grip and off-road competence available in conventional Escape models.
Full hybrids can achieve 50% or more improvement in fuel economy during traffic induced stop-and-go type of driving, wherein the electric motor is most efficient. The Escape Hybrid delivers more than 75% fuel economy improvement in city driving when weighed against a conventional V-6 powered Escape XLT. The Escape Hybrid can travel more than 400 miles in city driving on a single tank of gasoline.
Ford has already manufactured and sold the 4,000 units Ford Escape Hybrid in 2004 and its resounding success has prompted it to build a “modest” 20,000 more for 2005. Ford wants to make sure it is not just a fad and people would see the practical, economical and environmental impact a Hybrid vehicle can induce. The Escape Hybrid costs $3,300 more than the V-6 powered Escape.
Dodge and General Motors follow suit. Ford has been the first to produce and set the bar in the large vehicle Hybrid market segment and Dodge and GM cannot afford to lag behind. General Motors and Dodge are not that far behind though. In the last quarter of 2004, General Motors introduced electric hybrid versions of its 2005 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra pickups. The trucks were only available to those who are in Florida, California, Nevada, Alaska, Oregon, and Washington. GM expects to produce about 2,500 units in 2005 - 1,875 Silverados and 625 Sierras - with the hopes of launching the vehicles on a national scale by 2006. Dodge manufactured only 100 diesel-electric 2005 RAM pickups, targeted for utility company fleets. The diesel will produce better fuel economy, with an additional 15% mpg boost over the conventional diesel Ram coming from the electric side. Diesels are generally considered more “environmentally disastrous” on the ecological front. The Dodge Ram Diesel Hybrid is expected to sell for around $40,000 a somewhat larger cost than the non-hybrid models.
Heftier Price Tags. Although the price tags may vary from state to state, the average increase for the cost for a Hybrid option may run well up to $3,000. The GM versions of the Hybrid engine are soft-hybrids, which mean that an electric motor provides a boost up on accelerations. The GM version of a hybrid large vehicle has a stop-start system that turns off the gasoline engine at traffic lights. It possesses a 120-volt, 2,400-watt generator system that can provide power for electrical equipments. The Silverado and Sierra hybrids also serves as power generators, with two conventional, three-prong plug-ins that can be found under the rear seat, two extra plug-ins can also be found in the rear bed of the trucks. The four 120-volt, 20 amp electrical supplementary power outlets can supply power for electric coolers, electric ranges, sound systems video consoles and other electrical equipments that can be lugged around. The power supply can be utilized while the engine is running or even after the engine is cut and the keys are taken out of the ignition. Ground fault detection systems are installed in the power supply circuits so that overloads and short circuits can be prevented. According to General Motors, the new hybrid pickups could sustain enough power to last for up to 32 hours non-stop before needing to fill the tank again. This function new feature proved to be very useful when GM loaned some of their new Hybrids’ to hurricane stricken Florida when they were used for some relief operations, they were vital in some areas were electricity was incapacitated. The hybrid models of the Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra trucks are foreseen to develop fuel savings of up to 10% over analogous trucks without the hybrid benefit.
How exactly do Hybrids get such Fantastic Mileage?
HV’s (Hybrid Vehicles) are principally powered by an internal combustion engine, much like any ordinary vehicles. However, they also transform the energy that is normally wasted during stop and go operations into electricity, which is stored in a battery until the moment it is needed by the electric motor. The electric motor is utilized to support the engine when accelerating or doing some uphill driving and in low-speed driving operations where internal combustion engines are least efficient. Some Hybrid Vehicles also automatically shut off the engine when the vehicle is idling and restarts the internal combustion engine when the accelerator is depressed. This avoids exhausted fuel when the vehicle is not in motion. Unlike all-electric vehicles, HV’s that are being produced today do not need to be plugged into an external source of electricity to be recharged, the energy provided by the engine and the braking force charges the batteries.
Is it worth the fuss and the costs? It all boils down to one thing, Large Hybrid Vehicles cost more than their non-hybrid counterparts. Deciding on the advantages though is not that hard. You get better mileage, companies save on fuel consumption, electric motors are all the rage plus you get to help the environment. Also, the hybrid SUV’s pay for themselves in the long run, costs may be cut through tax incentives and decreased fuel consumption help to offset the price difference. Determining the cost-savings ratio would be one factor many car manufacturers will keep in mind while keeping close scrutiny in their products. Nevertheless a large hybrid vehicle may just be the thing the future needs.
About The Author
Parts Train has been a leader in the online parts supplying industry for many years now. They have over 25 years of experience in dealing with cars and have been regarded as experts in their field. Available in their wide array of stocks are a variety of products that can help maintain, enhance, replace and repair any make and model of vehicle available in the market today.
Call their toll-free hotline, 1-888-251-1214 for all your inquiries and comments. At partstrain.com they guarantee perfect fit and excellent quality.
This article was posted on January 14, 2005
Welcome To The World Of "Upside Down" Motorcycle Loans!
Welcome To The World Of "Upside Down" Motorcycle Loans!
by: Jay Fran
With the depreciation on motorcycles being so enormous after they are driven off the showroom floor, the potential for a buyer owing more on their motorcycle loan than the bike is worth it quite high. Owing more on your bike than it is worth is often referred to as the world of “up side Down#8221;.
Many people finding themselves in this situation discover that financial lessons are sometimes the hardest and most expensive to learn. Motorcycle loans of more than 48 months (especially without a down payment) put you in the position of owing more than the value of the bike.
Let’s take a look at this phenomenon.
First, the interest calculation your lender uses can make a big difference in your situation, especially in the first 18 months. There are two primary interest calculations, pre-computed (combined with rule of 78) and simple interest.
Pre-computed interest combined with Rule of 78, is typically the worst situation for a buyer because most of the interest is paid in the first 24 months. Therefore, in the first 24 months little of the monthly payment has gone towards paying down principal. If a buyer wishes to sell or trade in the motorcycle within this timeframe they will likely find themselves owing more than the bike is worth. Statistics show that the average owner trades in every 18-24 months.
Simple interest on the other hand, is much more favorable for buyers since interest accrues on the balance of the loan. However, buyers that extend their loans for greater than 48 months can still find themselves up side down with simple interest. This is especially true if a down payment is not made. The reason this occurs is that the motorcycle depreciates faster than the principal is paid; leaving the balance owed to the lender to be more than the bike can be sold for.
A common view that many people have is that they will just surrender their motorcycle to the lender if they are caught in an “up side Down#8221; position. If you are considering this option don’t! Your worries do not just end after your bike is surrendered or repossessed; in fact they are just beginning. The lender will sell your bike at an auction for much less than it is worth. You will still owe the difference between the amount you owed on your loan and the amount the motorcycle sold for at auction. So if you owe $5000 and the bike sells for $1500, you still are responsible for owing the lender $3500. To make it worse lenders may tack on hefty auction fees which you will owe as well. So the net result is that you are now responsible for making monthly payments on a bike you can no longer ride.
So what steps can you take to prevent from being caught “up side Down#8221;?
1. Find a lender that uses simple interest. Avoid lenders that use pre-computed / Rule of 78 interest calculations.
2. Always try to put money down on your purchase.
3. Try to avoid motorcycle loans that extend past 36 months.
About The Author
Jay Fran is a successful author and publisher for a website that specializes in Motorcycle Loans: Poor Credit Approvals Available. A comprehensive resource on simple interest motorcycle financing, poor credit, new, used and bad credit motorcycle loans.
http://www.motorcycle-financing-guide.com/
This article was posted on January 11, 2005
by: Jay Fran
With the depreciation on motorcycles being so enormous after they are driven off the showroom floor, the potential for a buyer owing more on their motorcycle loan than the bike is worth it quite high. Owing more on your bike than it is worth is often referred to as the world of “up side Down#8221;.
Many people finding themselves in this situation discover that financial lessons are sometimes the hardest and most expensive to learn. Motorcycle loans of more than 48 months (especially without a down payment) put you in the position of owing more than the value of the bike.
Let’s take a look at this phenomenon.
First, the interest calculation your lender uses can make a big difference in your situation, especially in the first 18 months. There are two primary interest calculations, pre-computed (combined with rule of 78) and simple interest.
Pre-computed interest combined with Rule of 78, is typically the worst situation for a buyer because most of the interest is paid in the first 24 months. Therefore, in the first 24 months little of the monthly payment has gone towards paying down principal. If a buyer wishes to sell or trade in the motorcycle within this timeframe they will likely find themselves owing more than the bike is worth. Statistics show that the average owner trades in every 18-24 months.
Simple interest on the other hand, is much more favorable for buyers since interest accrues on the balance of the loan. However, buyers that extend their loans for greater than 48 months can still find themselves up side down with simple interest. This is especially true if a down payment is not made. The reason this occurs is that the motorcycle depreciates faster than the principal is paid; leaving the balance owed to the lender to be more than the bike can be sold for.
A common view that many people have is that they will just surrender their motorcycle to the lender if they are caught in an “up side Down#8221; position. If you are considering this option don’t! Your worries do not just end after your bike is surrendered or repossessed; in fact they are just beginning. The lender will sell your bike at an auction for much less than it is worth. You will still owe the difference between the amount you owed on your loan and the amount the motorcycle sold for at auction. So if you owe $5000 and the bike sells for $1500, you still are responsible for owing the lender $3500. To make it worse lenders may tack on hefty auction fees which you will owe as well. So the net result is that you are now responsible for making monthly payments on a bike you can no longer ride.
So what steps can you take to prevent from being caught “up side Down#8221;?
1. Find a lender that uses simple interest. Avoid lenders that use pre-computed / Rule of 78 interest calculations.
2. Always try to put money down on your purchase.
3. Try to avoid motorcycle loans that extend past 36 months.
About The Author
Jay Fran is a successful author and publisher for a website that specializes in Motorcycle Loans: Poor Credit Approvals Available. A comprehensive resource on simple interest motorcycle financing, poor credit, new, used and bad credit motorcycle loans.
http://www.motorcycle-financing-guide.com/
This article was posted on January 11, 2005
Welcome To The World Of "Upside Down" Motorcycle Loans!
Welcome To The World Of "Upside Down" Motorcycle Loans!
by: Jay Fran
With the depreciation on motorcycles being so enormous after they are driven off the showroom floor, the potential for a buyer owing more on their motorcycle loan than the bike is worth it quite high. Owing more on your bike than it is worth is often referred to as the world of “up side Down#8221;.
Many people finding themselves in this situation discover that financial lessons are sometimes the hardest and most expensive to learn. Motorcycle loans of more than 48 months (especially without a down payment) put you in the position of owing more than the value of the bike.
Let’s take a look at this phenomenon.
First, the interest calculation your lender uses can make a big difference in your situation, especially in the first 18 months. There are two primary interest calculations, pre-computed (combined with rule of 78) and simple interest.
Pre-computed interest combined with Rule of 78, is typically the worst situation for a buyer because most of the interest is paid in the first 24 months. Therefore, in the first 24 months little of the monthly payment has gone towards paying down principal. If a buyer wishes to sell or trade in the motorcycle within this timeframe they will likely find themselves owing more than the bike is worth. Statistics show that the average owner trades in every 18-24 months.
Simple interest on the other hand, is much more favorable for buyers since interest accrues on the balance of the loan. However, buyers that extend their loans for greater than 48 months can still find themselves up side down with simple interest. This is especially true if a down payment is not made. The reason this occurs is that the motorcycle depreciates faster than the principal is paid; leaving the balance owed to the lender to be more than the bike can be sold for.
A common view that many people have is that they will just surrender their motorcycle to the lender if they are caught in an “up side Down#8221; position. If you are considering this option don’t! Your worries do not just end after your bike is surrendered or repossessed; in fact they are just beginning. The lender will sell your bike at an auction for much less than it is worth. You will still owe the difference between the amount you owed on your loan and the amount the motorcycle sold for at auction. So if you owe $5000 and the bike sells for $1500, you still are responsible for owing the lender $3500. To make it worse lenders may tack on hefty auction fees which you will owe as well. So the net result is that you are now responsible for making monthly payments on a bike you can no longer ride.
So what steps can you take to prevent from being caught “up side Down#8221;?
1. Find a lender that uses simple interest. Avoid lenders that use pre-computed / Rule of 78 interest calculations.
2. Always try to put money down on your purchase.
3. Try to avoid motorcycle loans that extend past 36 months.
About The Author
Jay Fran is a successful author and publisher for a website that specializes in Motorcycle Loans: Poor Credit Approvals Available. A comprehensive resource on simple interest motorcycle financing, poor credit, new, used and bad credit motorcycle loans.
http://www.motorcycle-financing-guide.com/
This article was posted on January 11, 2005
by: Jay Fran
With the depreciation on motorcycles being so enormous after they are driven off the showroom floor, the potential for a buyer owing more on their motorcycle loan than the bike is worth it quite high. Owing more on your bike than it is worth is often referred to as the world of “up side Down#8221;.
Many people finding themselves in this situation discover that financial lessons are sometimes the hardest and most expensive to learn. Motorcycle loans of more than 48 months (especially without a down payment) put you in the position of owing more than the value of the bike.
Let’s take a look at this phenomenon.
First, the interest calculation your lender uses can make a big difference in your situation, especially in the first 18 months. There are two primary interest calculations, pre-computed (combined with rule of 78) and simple interest.
Pre-computed interest combined with Rule of 78, is typically the worst situation for a buyer because most of the interest is paid in the first 24 months. Therefore, in the first 24 months little of the monthly payment has gone towards paying down principal. If a buyer wishes to sell or trade in the motorcycle within this timeframe they will likely find themselves owing more than the bike is worth. Statistics show that the average owner trades in every 18-24 months.
Simple interest on the other hand, is much more favorable for buyers since interest accrues on the balance of the loan. However, buyers that extend their loans for greater than 48 months can still find themselves up side down with simple interest. This is especially true if a down payment is not made. The reason this occurs is that the motorcycle depreciates faster than the principal is paid; leaving the balance owed to the lender to be more than the bike can be sold for.
A common view that many people have is that they will just surrender their motorcycle to the lender if they are caught in an “up side Down#8221; position. If you are considering this option don’t! Your worries do not just end after your bike is surrendered or repossessed; in fact they are just beginning. The lender will sell your bike at an auction for much less than it is worth. You will still owe the difference between the amount you owed on your loan and the amount the motorcycle sold for at auction. So if you owe $5000 and the bike sells for $1500, you still are responsible for owing the lender $3500. To make it worse lenders may tack on hefty auction fees which you will owe as well. So the net result is that you are now responsible for making monthly payments on a bike you can no longer ride.
So what steps can you take to prevent from being caught “up side Down#8221;?
1. Find a lender that uses simple interest. Avoid lenders that use pre-computed / Rule of 78 interest calculations.
2. Always try to put money down on your purchase.
3. Try to avoid motorcycle loans that extend past 36 months.
About The Author
Jay Fran is a successful author and publisher for a website that specializes in Motorcycle Loans: Poor Credit Approvals Available. A comprehensive resource on simple interest motorcycle financing, poor credit, new, used and bad credit motorcycle loans.
http://www.motorcycle-financing-guide.com/
This article was posted on January 11, 2005
As the accident victim you should check to see if there were newspaper accounts reporting the accident. If there were clip out the relevant articles and save them. The area’s local newspapers should also be checked for the possibility that they ma....
What to Remember When Purchasing Your Car
by: Andrew D'luko
Buying a new car is the second most expensive thing most consumers buy. Next to houses of course. That is why it is important to know all the tips on making car buying easy and less stressful. Think about the car model and features you will want. Also think about how much you are willing to spend and STICK TO IT. Car salesmen are almost always paid on commission which means all they want is your purchase. Also, don’t be hasty or feel rushed into making a decision. If you are not sure about something, come back later.
Check books and magazines at the library or surf the internet for useful information on prices and features for the car you want before showing up at the dealer. That way you feel you know just as much about the kind of car you want as the salesman does. Shop around – Never go with an impulse buy. Go to a few different dealers and talk to a car-buying service and a broker-buying service to make comparisons.
Plan on negotiating the price. Dealers may be willing to bargain on their profit margin. This is the difference between the MSRP (Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price) and the invoice price. This also affects your monthly payments. Negotiating the price can save you big money.
You may even want to consider ordering the car that you want. This may cause delays, but if the car with the features you want is not on the lot, this may be your best option. Remember this is a big purchase and one that will probably need to last you for a while. Inversely however you may get a better deal from the dealership if you buy a car from their inventory. Just because they want to get rid of them.
If you are trading in your old car for a new one. Negotiate the price of the new one before letting them know about the old one. Once they know you want to trade-in, they know you have that much more money to spend and they will use that against you. Check the internet or the library for information on the value of your old car. Just to give you a ballpark idea. Remember that if you can, you should try to sell your car yourself. You will get much more money for it that way.
About The Author
Andrew D'luko is the Webmaster of http://www.amscar.com/.
Visit his site AMSCar.com for more information.
This article was posted on January 07, 2005
by: Andrew D'luko
Buying a new car is the second most expensive thing most consumers buy. Next to houses of course. That is why it is important to know all the tips on making car buying easy and less stressful. Think about the car model and features you will want. Also think about how much you are willing to spend and STICK TO IT. Car salesmen are almost always paid on commission which means all they want is your purchase. Also, don’t be hasty or feel rushed into making a decision. If you are not sure about something, come back later.
Check books and magazines at the library or surf the internet for useful information on prices and features for the car you want before showing up at the dealer. That way you feel you know just as much about the kind of car you want as the salesman does. Shop around – Never go with an impulse buy. Go to a few different dealers and talk to a car-buying service and a broker-buying service to make comparisons.
Plan on negotiating the price. Dealers may be willing to bargain on their profit margin. This is the difference between the MSRP (Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price) and the invoice price. This also affects your monthly payments. Negotiating the price can save you big money.
You may even want to consider ordering the car that you want. This may cause delays, but if the car with the features you want is not on the lot, this may be your best option. Remember this is a big purchase and one that will probably need to last you for a while. Inversely however you may get a better deal from the dealership if you buy a car from their inventory. Just because they want to get rid of them.
If you are trading in your old car for a new one. Negotiate the price of the new one before letting them know about the old one. Once they know you want to trade-in, they know you have that much more money to spend and they will use that against you. Check the internet or the library for information on the value of your old car. Just to give you a ballpark idea. Remember that if you can, you should try to sell your car yourself. You will get much more money for it that way.
About The Author
Andrew D'luko is the Webmaster of http://www.amscar.com/.
Visit his site AMSCar.com for more information.
This article was posted on January 07, 2005
Newspaper Information And/Or Police Reports Regarding Your Motor Vehicle Accident
Newspaper Information And/Or Police Reports Regarding Your Motor Vehicle Accident
by: Dan Baldyga
As the accident victim you should check to see if there were newspaper accounts reporting the accident. If there were clip out the relevant articles and save them. The area’s local newspapers should also be checked for the possibility that they may have published a synopsis of the weather on the day of the accident. Upon clipping out such an item a notation should be made indicating the name of the newspaper, plus the date and page, etc.
Review these write-up’s closely because a photograph may be available via those articles. If that’ so, go to the newspaper office (or make a telephone call to it) and order an 8x10 glossy print of the photo from that article’s reporter or photographer. It’s even possible you may discover that a newspaper (or an on-the-scene TV reporter) has available a photo that had been taken but wasn’t used - - these are usually available for a nominal charge.
There are two other “by products” for which photographs can additionally be useful to you in your claims settlement undertaking when you and adjuster I. M. Smart face off. One by-product is the possibility that, upon closely studying the photo, you may discover a witness. Or you might be able to pick out from the photos the registration numbers of other vehicles in the impact area but weren’t involved in the accident. From such a piece of information you may be able to get the police, or the motor vehicle department, to provide you with the names and addresses of the parties to whom the registration number belongs. That, thus accomplished, could present you with the possibility of locating a critical witness to your case.
OBTAINING THE POLICE REPORT - - IF THEIR IS ONE
It’s always a good idea to call the police when there’s an accident. It’s to your advantage to do so and to have a police report on file.Police are required, by law, to be promptly notified whenever an accident occurs, especially when there’s an injury or the damages to one of the vehicles exceeds some fixed amount, say for example, $250.00 or $300.00.
About a week or so after the police execute the report it will usually be available to the public at the police department. You may secure a copy of the report by requesting one for a nominal charge. If the accident occurs on a state highway, you apply for the report from that states Highway Patrol office. If the accident occurred anywhere else, you should apply for that report from the city, county, or sheriff’s department that investigated the accident.
Upon obtaining a copy you can scan it for a witness the police may have included. It’s possible that the police may have taken some useful photographs. They’ll usually be more than willing to sell you reprints.
You may discover - - especially in severe accident violations involving, for example, drunkenness - - that there’s in existence some special reports and/or highly detailed diagrams of the accident. You can inquire with the investigating officers who prepared the report (their names are almost always listed somewhere on the reports) as to whether there was a professional photographer they may observed at the scene, thereby providing you with yet another source for potentially helpful photographs or witnesses.
If you accomplish this preliminary work and then, when you sit down for your settlement talk with Adjuster Smart (presenting him with what you’ve accumulated) he’s going to understand he’s dealing with an individual who knows what they’re doing. This will go a long way towards convincing him not to attempt to con and/or take advantage of you. And that’s always money in the bank!
DISCLAIMER: The only purpose of this article "NEWSPAPER INFORMATION AND/OR POLICE REPORTS REGARDING YOUR MOTOR VEHICLE ACCIDENT" is to help people understand the motor vehicle accident claim process. Neither Dan Baldyga, Peter Go, nor ARTICLE CITY makes any guarantee of any kind whatsoever; NOR do they purport to engage in rendering any professional or legal service, NOR to substitute for a lawyer, an insurance adjuster, or claims consultant, or the like. Where such professional help is desired it is the INDIVIDUAL’S RESPONSIBILITY to obtain said services.
All of the information necessary for you to deal with and handle the above issues are spelled out within the contents of Dan Baldyga's third "How To" Insurance Claim book, AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM (How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss) can be found on the internet at http://www.autoaccidentclaims.com. This book also contains BASE (The Baldyga Auto Accident Settlement Evaluation Formula). THE BASE FORMULA will tell you exactly how many dollars the "Pain and Suffering" you endured, because of your accident - - are worth!
Copyright 2005 (c) By Dan Baldyga. All Rights Reserved
About The Author
Dan Baldyga is now retired and spends his time writing articles to assist those who are in motor vehicle accident claims so they won't be taken advantage of: dbpaw@comcast.net.
Dan Baldyga - Author
dbpaw@comcast.net
AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM
(How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss)
http://www.autoaccidentclaims.com
This article was posted on January 04, 2005
by: Dan Baldyga
As the accident victim you should check to see if there were newspaper accounts reporting the accident. If there were clip out the relevant articles and save them. The area’s local newspapers should also be checked for the possibility that they may have published a synopsis of the weather on the day of the accident. Upon clipping out such an item a notation should be made indicating the name of the newspaper, plus the date and page, etc.
Review these write-up’s closely because a photograph may be available via those articles. If that’ so, go to the newspaper office (or make a telephone call to it) and order an 8x10 glossy print of the photo from that article’s reporter or photographer. It’s even possible you may discover that a newspaper (or an on-the-scene TV reporter) has available a photo that had been taken but wasn’t used - - these are usually available for a nominal charge.
There are two other “by products” for which photographs can additionally be useful to you in your claims settlement undertaking when you and adjuster I. M. Smart face off. One by-product is the possibility that, upon closely studying the photo, you may discover a witness. Or you might be able to pick out from the photos the registration numbers of other vehicles in the impact area but weren’t involved in the accident. From such a piece of information you may be able to get the police, or the motor vehicle department, to provide you with the names and addresses of the parties to whom the registration number belongs. That, thus accomplished, could present you with the possibility of locating a critical witness to your case.
OBTAINING THE POLICE REPORT - - IF THEIR IS ONE
It’s always a good idea to call the police when there’s an accident. It’s to your advantage to do so and to have a police report on file.Police are required, by law, to be promptly notified whenever an accident occurs, especially when there’s an injury or the damages to one of the vehicles exceeds some fixed amount, say for example, $250.00 or $300.00.
About a week or so after the police execute the report it will usually be available to the public at the police department. You may secure a copy of the report by requesting one for a nominal charge. If the accident occurs on a state highway, you apply for the report from that states Highway Patrol office. If the accident occurred anywhere else, you should apply for that report from the city, county, or sheriff’s department that investigated the accident.
Upon obtaining a copy you can scan it for a witness the police may have included. It’s possible that the police may have taken some useful photographs. They’ll usually be more than willing to sell you reprints.
You may discover - - especially in severe accident violations involving, for example, drunkenness - - that there’s in existence some special reports and/or highly detailed diagrams of the accident. You can inquire with the investigating officers who prepared the report (their names are almost always listed somewhere on the reports) as to whether there was a professional photographer they may observed at the scene, thereby providing you with yet another source for potentially helpful photographs or witnesses.
If you accomplish this preliminary work and then, when you sit down for your settlement talk with Adjuster Smart (presenting him with what you’ve accumulated) he’s going to understand he’s dealing with an individual who knows what they’re doing. This will go a long way towards convincing him not to attempt to con and/or take advantage of you. And that’s always money in the bank!
DISCLAIMER: The only purpose of this article "NEWSPAPER INFORMATION AND/OR POLICE REPORTS REGARDING YOUR MOTOR VEHICLE ACCIDENT" is to help people understand the motor vehicle accident claim process. Neither Dan Baldyga, Peter Go, nor ARTICLE CITY makes any guarantee of any kind whatsoever; NOR do they purport to engage in rendering any professional or legal service, NOR to substitute for a lawyer, an insurance adjuster, or claims consultant, or the like. Where such professional help is desired it is the INDIVIDUAL’S RESPONSIBILITY to obtain said services.
All of the information necessary for you to deal with and handle the above issues are spelled out within the contents of Dan Baldyga's third "How To" Insurance Claim book, AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM (How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss) can be found on the internet at http://www.autoaccidentclaims.com. This book also contains BASE (The Baldyga Auto Accident Settlement Evaluation Formula). THE BASE FORMULA will tell you exactly how many dollars the "Pain and Suffering" you endured, because of your accident - - are worth!
Copyright 2005 (c) By Dan Baldyga. All Rights Reserved
About The Author
Dan Baldyga is now retired and spends his time writing articles to assist those who are in motor vehicle accident claims so they won't be taken advantage of: dbpaw@comcast.net.
Dan Baldyga - Author
dbpaw@comcast.net
AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM
(How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss)
http://www.autoaccidentclaims.com
This article was posted on January 04, 2005
Newspaper Information And/Or Police Reports Regarding Your Motor Vehicle Accident
Newspaper Information And/Or Police Reports Regarding Your Motor Vehicle Accident
by: Dan Baldyga
As the accident victim you should check to see if there were newspaper accounts reporting the accident. If there were clip out the relevant articles and save them. The area’s local newspapers should also be checked for the possibility that they may have published a synopsis of the weather on the day of the accident. Upon clipping out such an item a notation should be made indicating the name of the newspaper, plus the date and page, etc.
Review these write-up’s closely because a photograph may be available via those articles. If that’ so, go to the newspaper office (or make a telephone call to it) and order an 8x10 glossy print of the photo from that article’s reporter or photographer. It’s even possible you may discover that a newspaper (or an on-the-scene TV reporter) has available a photo that had been taken but wasn’t used - - these are usually available for a nominal charge.
There are two other “by products” for which photographs can additionally be useful to you in your claims settlement undertaking when you and adjuster I. M. Smart face off. One by-product is the possibility that, upon closely studying the photo, you may discover a witness. Or you might be able to pick out from the photos the registration numbers of other vehicles in the impact area but weren’t involved in the accident. From such a piece of information you may be able to get the police, or the motor vehicle department, to provide you with the names and addresses of the parties to whom the registration number belongs. That, thus accomplished, could present you with the possibility of locating a critical witness to your case.
OBTAINING THE POLICE REPORT - - IF THEIR IS ONE
It’s always a good idea to call the police when there’s an accident. It’s to your advantage to do so and to have a police report on file.Police are required, by law, to be promptly notified whenever an accident occurs, especially when there’s an injury or the damages to one of the vehicles exceeds some fixed amount, say for example, $250.00 or $300.00.
About a week or so after the police execute the report it will usually be available to the public at the police department. You may secure a copy of the report by requesting one for a nominal charge. If the accident occurs on a state highway, you apply for the report from that states Highway Patrol office. If the accident occurred anywhere else, you should apply for that report from the city, county, or sheriff’s department that investigated the accident.
Upon obtaining a copy you can scan it for a witness the police may have included. It’s possible that the police may have taken some useful photographs. They’ll usually be more than willing to sell you reprints.
You may discover - - especially in severe accident violations involving, for example, drunkenness - - that there’s in existence some special reports and/or highly detailed diagrams of the accident. You can inquire with the investigating officers who prepared the report (their names are almost always listed somewhere on the reports) as to whether there was a professional photographer they may observed at the scene, thereby providing you with yet another source for potentially helpful photographs or witnesses.
If you accomplish this preliminary work and then, when you sit down for your settlement talk with Adjuster Smart (presenting him with what you’ve accumulated) he’s going to understand he’s dealing with an individual who knows what they’re doing. This will go a long way towards convincing him not to attempt to con and/or take advantage of you. And that’s always money in the bank!
DISCLAIMER: The only purpose of this article "NEWSPAPER INFORMATION AND/OR POLICE REPORTS REGARDING YOUR MOTOR VEHICLE ACCIDENT" is to help people understand the motor vehicle accident claim process. Neither Dan Baldyga, Peter Go, nor ARTICLE CITY makes any guarantee of any kind whatsoever; NOR do they purport to engage in rendering any professional or legal service, NOR to substitute for a lawyer, an insurance adjuster, or claims consultant, or the like. Where such professional help is desired it is the INDIVIDUAL’S RESPONSIBILITY to obtain said services.
All of the information necessary for you to deal with and handle the above issues are spelled out within the contents of Dan Baldyga's third "How To" Insurance Claim book, AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM (How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss) can be found on the internet at http://www.autoaccidentclaims.com. This book also contains BASE (The Baldyga Auto Accident Settlement Evaluation Formula). THE BASE FORMULA will tell you exactly how many dollars the "Pain and Suffering" you endured, because of your accident - - are worth!
Copyright 2005 (c) By Dan Baldyga. All Rights Reserved
About The Author
Dan Baldyga is now retired and spends his time writing articles to assist those who are in motor vehicle accident claims so they won't be taken advantage of: dbpaw@comcast.net.
Dan Baldyga - Author
dbpaw@comcast.net
AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM
(How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss)
http://www.autoaccidentclaims.com
This article was posted on January 04, 2005
by: Dan Baldyga
As the accident victim you should check to see if there were newspaper accounts reporting the accident. If there were clip out the relevant articles and save them. The area’s local newspapers should also be checked for the possibility that they may have published a synopsis of the weather on the day of the accident. Upon clipping out such an item a notation should be made indicating the name of the newspaper, plus the date and page, etc.
Review these write-up’s closely because a photograph may be available via those articles. If that’ so, go to the newspaper office (or make a telephone call to it) and order an 8x10 glossy print of the photo from that article’s reporter or photographer. It’s even possible you may discover that a newspaper (or an on-the-scene TV reporter) has available a photo that had been taken but wasn’t used - - these are usually available for a nominal charge.
There are two other “by products” for which photographs can additionally be useful to you in your claims settlement undertaking when you and adjuster I. M. Smart face off. One by-product is the possibility that, upon closely studying the photo, you may discover a witness. Or you might be able to pick out from the photos the registration numbers of other vehicles in the impact area but weren’t involved in the accident. From such a piece of information you may be able to get the police, or the motor vehicle department, to provide you with the names and addresses of the parties to whom the registration number belongs. That, thus accomplished, could present you with the possibility of locating a critical witness to your case.
OBTAINING THE POLICE REPORT - - IF THEIR IS ONE
It’s always a good idea to call the police when there’s an accident. It’s to your advantage to do so and to have a police report on file.Police are required, by law, to be promptly notified whenever an accident occurs, especially when there’s an injury or the damages to one of the vehicles exceeds some fixed amount, say for example, $250.00 or $300.00.
About a week or so after the police execute the report it will usually be available to the public at the police department. You may secure a copy of the report by requesting one for a nominal charge. If the accident occurs on a state highway, you apply for the report from that states Highway Patrol office. If the accident occurred anywhere else, you should apply for that report from the city, county, or sheriff’s department that investigated the accident.
Upon obtaining a copy you can scan it for a witness the police may have included. It’s possible that the police may have taken some useful photographs. They’ll usually be more than willing to sell you reprints.
You may discover - - especially in severe accident violations involving, for example, drunkenness - - that there’s in existence some special reports and/or highly detailed diagrams of the accident. You can inquire with the investigating officers who prepared the report (their names are almost always listed somewhere on the reports) as to whether there was a professional photographer they may observed at the scene, thereby providing you with yet another source for potentially helpful photographs or witnesses.
If you accomplish this preliminary work and then, when you sit down for your settlement talk with Adjuster Smart (presenting him with what you’ve accumulated) he’s going to understand he’s dealing with an individual who knows what they’re doing. This will go a long way towards convincing him not to attempt to con and/or take advantage of you. And that’s always money in the bank!
DISCLAIMER: The only purpose of this article "NEWSPAPER INFORMATION AND/OR POLICE REPORTS REGARDING YOUR MOTOR VEHICLE ACCIDENT" is to help people understand the motor vehicle accident claim process. Neither Dan Baldyga, Peter Go, nor ARTICLE CITY makes any guarantee of any kind whatsoever; NOR do they purport to engage in rendering any professional or legal service, NOR to substitute for a lawyer, an insurance adjuster, or claims consultant, or the like. Where such professional help is desired it is the INDIVIDUAL’S RESPONSIBILITY to obtain said services.
All of the information necessary for you to deal with and handle the above issues are spelled out within the contents of Dan Baldyga's third "How To" Insurance Claim book, AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM (How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss) can be found on the internet at http://www.autoaccidentclaims.com. This book also contains BASE (The Baldyga Auto Accident Settlement Evaluation Formula). THE BASE FORMULA will tell you exactly how many dollars the "Pain and Suffering" you endured, because of your accident - - are worth!
Copyright 2005 (c) By Dan Baldyga. All Rights Reserved
About The Author
Dan Baldyga is now retired and spends his time writing articles to assist those who are in motor vehicle accident claims so they won't be taken advantage of: dbpaw@comcast.net.
Dan Baldyga - Author
dbpaw@comcast.net
AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM
(How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss)
http://www.autoaccidentclaims.com
This article was posted on January 04, 2005
Explore Less-Traveled Paths in Camping Comfort
Explore Less-Traveled Paths in Camping Comfort
by: ARA Content
Innovations provide the power to enjoy RV amenities miles beyond the last electrical hookup.
(ARA) - If you've already experienced the serenity and fun of camping with your towable recreational vehicle (RV), you know the freedom of getting away. Now you can travel even farther and discover your own quiet haven in nature. Without leaving every convenience behind, your family can dine amidst tall pines, identify constellations in clear night skies and then flip on the lights to enjoy a favorite novel before turning in. New products such as quiet, dependable power sources can make comfort and security part of your travels, wherever the trail may lead.
"The U.S. Forest Service includes 192 million diverse acres across the nation that are waiting to be enjoyed," says Jim Miller, dispersed recreation program manager, USDA Forest Service. "Most campsites in our system do not have electrical hookups and many forests offer even more primitive or 'dispersed' camping opportunities. Depending on local forest regulations, campers can travel off main roads and pick out their own sites along less-developed routes, as long as they do so responsibly, with respect for other visitors and as little environmental disruption as possible."
Miller notes that dispersed sites tend to appeal to experienced campers who are looking for their own quiet spot. What they often find are breathtaking vistas, colorful sunrises and close-up looks of surrounding nature. "Many choosing dispersed sites stay near favorite hunting or fishing spots," Miller notes. "Mountain bikers or hikers also prefer to camp close to favorite trails for easy access."
Camping -- Not Roughing It
Even without electrical hookups, piped water or toilets, campers can enjoy many comforts from home when they travel in a camper carrying its own power source. Onan's new compact generator, Camp Power, provides big-RV power for smaller trailers, folding camping trailers and truck campers. The generator's fully enclosed design is quiet enough to operate in many national parks, although park authorities should always be consulted regarding local regulations.
"Towable RVs can be compatible with rustic or dispersed campsites, where it's highly important to tread lightly on the land," says Joyce Drinnin, marketing manager, RV marketing, Onan. "Since most toilet and cooking facilities are available in towables, it's easier to leave natural surroundings undisturbed. With an unobtrusive power source, campers can enjoy a hot cup of coffee and a hearty meal without building a fire. Plus, in some camper units, you can even cool down in air-conditioned comfort after a long, hot day on the trail."
For other benefits, Drinnin points to added security from dependable campsite lighting and communication systems that provide advance warning when stormy weather is on the horizon. "Today's active families build strong ties when they spend time together camping," she adds. "These extra safety features can reduce stress and enhance the time busy families enjoy together."
Be Prepared
Preparation for remote camping experiences is key to ensuring a pleasant camping experience, says Miller. His recommendations for campers are:
Contact the U.S. Forest Service in the area you plan to visit for current campsite information, since rules and regulations vary around the country. Motorized equipment is not allowed in designated wilderness areas.
Pack water filters or purification tablets for purifying lake or stream water, in case you need more water than you've brought along.
Follow local campfire regulations. If fires are permitted, build only small ones, never leave them unattended and always put fires dead out, especially when retiring for the night.
Use the portable toilet facilities in your towable. Other options are to bury human waste in decomposable layers of soil, normally at least 6 to 8 inches deep and 200 feet away from water, paths and campsites, or use toilet devices that allow you to sanitize waste for safe disposal when you return from camping.
Pack out everything you bring in. Always leave campsites the way you would like to find them.
For more information about U.S. Forest Service camping, visit www.fs.fed.us or www.recreation.gov. The U.S. Forest Service is listed under the U.S. Department of Agriculture in phone directories. For additional information about Camp Power, visit www.funroads.com.
SIDEBAR
Remote Camping Adventures
Pack your camper and experience nature in U.S. forests across the nation. Here's just a sampling of the adventures that await.
White Mountain National Forest, New Hampshire and Maine. Spectacular foliage is a key fall attraction for visitors. The forest includes Mount Washington, the highest peak in the Northeast, and a variety of wildlife, ranging from moose and black bears to peregrine falcons. Visit www.fs.fed.us/r9/white or call 603-528-8721.
Superior National Forest, Minnesota. Nearly 2,000 lakes and streams offer unmatched canoeing, boating and fishing in northeastern Minnesota's north woods. Trails for novice through advanced hikers meander through 3 million scenic acres and include access to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Visit www.superiornationalforest.org or call 218-626-4300, ext. 2.
Dakota Prairie Grasslands, North Dakota and South Dakota. Four separate grasslands, including the Maah Daah Hey Trail, offer rare views of wildlife and opportunities for hiking, canoeing, fishing, hunting and backpacking. These diverse sites range from tallgrass prairie on rolling hills to stark badlands. Visit www.fs.fed.us/r1/dakotaprairie or call 701-250-4443.
Grand Mesa, Uncompahgre and Gunnison National Forests, Colorado. Located on the western slope of the Colorado Rockies, these three forests offer some of the most spectacular scenery in the mountain range. Sites include Bridal Veil, the tallest waterfall in Colorado; Grand Mesa, the world's largest flattop mountain; and Dry Mesa Dinosaur Quarry, home of the world's largest dinosaur bone fossils. Visit www.fs.fed.us/r2/gmug or call 970-874-6600, ext. 6676.
Custer National Forest, Montana, North Dakota and South Dakota. This ecologically diverse area includes elevation ranges of less than 1,000 feet up to the 12,799-foot Granite Peak in Montana. Other highlights include ancient sand dunes covered with grasslands, rugged badlands and fields of alpine wildflowers. Visit www.fs.fed.us/r1/custer or call 406-446-2103.
Angeles National Forest, California. Not far from bustling Los Angeles, Angeles National Forest offers diverse topography, ranging from 10,000-foot mountain peaks to 1,200-foot canyon bottoms. Forest trails wind through 800 miles of rugged backcountry, scenic ridges and tree-lined canyons. Visit www.r5.fs.fed.us/angeles or call 626-574-5200.
Willamette National Forest, Oregon. This 1.6 million-acre forest stretches 110 miles along the western slopes of the Cascades. Trails, roads, campgrounds and viewpoints allow visitors to enjoy the forest's abundant rivers, streams and lakes. Seven major volcanic peaks are part of the Willamette, along with the forested Cascade Range of mountains. Visit www.fs.fed.us/r6/willamette or call 541-465-6521.
About The Author
Courtesy of ARA Content, www.ARAcontent.com; e-mail: info@ARAcontent.com
This article was posted on September 21, 2002
by: ARA Content
Innovations provide the power to enjoy RV amenities miles beyond the last electrical hookup.
(ARA) - If you've already experienced the serenity and fun of camping with your towable recreational vehicle (RV), you know the freedom of getting away. Now you can travel even farther and discover your own quiet haven in nature. Without leaving every convenience behind, your family can dine amidst tall pines, identify constellations in clear night skies and then flip on the lights to enjoy a favorite novel before turning in. New products such as quiet, dependable power sources can make comfort and security part of your travels, wherever the trail may lead.
"The U.S. Forest Service includes 192 million diverse acres across the nation that are waiting to be enjoyed," says Jim Miller, dispersed recreation program manager, USDA Forest Service. "Most campsites in our system do not have electrical hookups and many forests offer even more primitive or 'dispersed' camping opportunities. Depending on local forest regulations, campers can travel off main roads and pick out their own sites along less-developed routes, as long as they do so responsibly, with respect for other visitors and as little environmental disruption as possible."
Miller notes that dispersed sites tend to appeal to experienced campers who are looking for their own quiet spot. What they often find are breathtaking vistas, colorful sunrises and close-up looks of surrounding nature. "Many choosing dispersed sites stay near favorite hunting or fishing spots," Miller notes. "Mountain bikers or hikers also prefer to camp close to favorite trails for easy access."
Camping -- Not Roughing It
Even without electrical hookups, piped water or toilets, campers can enjoy many comforts from home when they travel in a camper carrying its own power source. Onan's new compact generator, Camp Power, provides big-RV power for smaller trailers, folding camping trailers and truck campers. The generator's fully enclosed design is quiet enough to operate in many national parks, although park authorities should always be consulted regarding local regulations.
"Towable RVs can be compatible with rustic or dispersed campsites, where it's highly important to tread lightly on the land," says Joyce Drinnin, marketing manager, RV marketing, Onan. "Since most toilet and cooking facilities are available in towables, it's easier to leave natural surroundings undisturbed. With an unobtrusive power source, campers can enjoy a hot cup of coffee and a hearty meal without building a fire. Plus, in some camper units, you can even cool down in air-conditioned comfort after a long, hot day on the trail."
For other benefits, Drinnin points to added security from dependable campsite lighting and communication systems that provide advance warning when stormy weather is on the horizon. "Today's active families build strong ties when they spend time together camping," she adds. "These extra safety features can reduce stress and enhance the time busy families enjoy together."
Be Prepared
Preparation for remote camping experiences is key to ensuring a pleasant camping experience, says Miller. His recommendations for campers are:
Contact the U.S. Forest Service in the area you plan to visit for current campsite information, since rules and regulations vary around the country. Motorized equipment is not allowed in designated wilderness areas.
Pack water filters or purification tablets for purifying lake or stream water, in case you need more water than you've brought along.
Follow local campfire regulations. If fires are permitted, build only small ones, never leave them unattended and always put fires dead out, especially when retiring for the night.
Use the portable toilet facilities in your towable. Other options are to bury human waste in decomposable layers of soil, normally at least 6 to 8 inches deep and 200 feet away from water, paths and campsites, or use toilet devices that allow you to sanitize waste for safe disposal when you return from camping.
Pack out everything you bring in. Always leave campsites the way you would like to find them.
For more information about U.S. Forest Service camping, visit www.fs.fed.us or www.recreation.gov. The U.S. Forest Service is listed under the U.S. Department of Agriculture in phone directories. For additional information about Camp Power, visit www.funroads.com.
SIDEBAR
Remote Camping Adventures
Pack your camper and experience nature in U.S. forests across the nation. Here's just a sampling of the adventures that await.
White Mountain National Forest, New Hampshire and Maine. Spectacular foliage is a key fall attraction for visitors. The forest includes Mount Washington, the highest peak in the Northeast, and a variety of wildlife, ranging from moose and black bears to peregrine falcons. Visit www.fs.fed.us/r9/white or call 603-528-8721.
Superior National Forest, Minnesota. Nearly 2,000 lakes and streams offer unmatched canoeing, boating and fishing in northeastern Minnesota's north woods. Trails for novice through advanced hikers meander through 3 million scenic acres and include access to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Visit www.superiornationalforest.org or call 218-626-4300, ext. 2.
Dakota Prairie Grasslands, North Dakota and South Dakota. Four separate grasslands, including the Maah Daah Hey Trail, offer rare views of wildlife and opportunities for hiking, canoeing, fishing, hunting and backpacking. These diverse sites range from tallgrass prairie on rolling hills to stark badlands. Visit www.fs.fed.us/r1/dakotaprairie or call 701-250-4443.
Grand Mesa, Uncompahgre and Gunnison National Forests, Colorado. Located on the western slope of the Colorado Rockies, these three forests offer some of the most spectacular scenery in the mountain range. Sites include Bridal Veil, the tallest waterfall in Colorado; Grand Mesa, the world's largest flattop mountain; and Dry Mesa Dinosaur Quarry, home of the world's largest dinosaur bone fossils. Visit www.fs.fed.us/r2/gmug or call 970-874-6600, ext. 6676.
Custer National Forest, Montana, North Dakota and South Dakota. This ecologically diverse area includes elevation ranges of less than 1,000 feet up to the 12,799-foot Granite Peak in Montana. Other highlights include ancient sand dunes covered with grasslands, rugged badlands and fields of alpine wildflowers. Visit www.fs.fed.us/r1/custer or call 406-446-2103.
Angeles National Forest, California. Not far from bustling Los Angeles, Angeles National Forest offers diverse topography, ranging from 10,000-foot mountain peaks to 1,200-foot canyon bottoms. Forest trails wind through 800 miles of rugged backcountry, scenic ridges and tree-lined canyons. Visit www.r5.fs.fed.us/angeles or call 626-574-5200.
Willamette National Forest, Oregon. This 1.6 million-acre forest stretches 110 miles along the western slopes of the Cascades. Trails, roads, campgrounds and viewpoints allow visitors to enjoy the forest's abundant rivers, streams and lakes. Seven major volcanic peaks are part of the Willamette, along with the forested Cascade Range of mountains. Visit www.fs.fed.us/r6/willamette or call 541-465-6521.
About The Author
Courtesy of ARA Content, www.ARAcontent.com; e-mail: info@ARAcontent.com
This article was posted on September 21, 2002
Used Car Auctions: Do's and Dont's
Used Car Auctions: Do's and Dont's
by: Thomas H. Miller
This is Part 1 of a 4 part series on how to buy a car at an auction
So you are looking for a car or truck, but you're tired of running around town and finding other people selling their "headaches" through the local classifieds, or dealers offering "cream-puffs" for inflated retail prices. All you want is a good vehicle for a good price. Period. Does such a deal exist? Yes, indeed! Repossession auctions are becoming more and more popular across the country. I have been attending them for over 20 years, and have purchased many cars and trucks at bargain prices - everything from a brand new car (still with the window sticker on it and 3 miles on the odometer) for $1,100 below the sticker price, to a conversion van with 99,000 miles on it. Both of these vehicles are still in the family and running strong.
1. What I'd like to do here is share my experiences with you, and give you some tips on how you, too, can find these bargains.
First of all, how do you find the auctions? Your local paper is a good place to start. Many banks and other financial institutions (such as GMAC) list the times and places of their auctions in Sunday papers under "Auctions" or "Cars for Sale". Also, if there is a "legal publication" in your area, that publishes court proceedings, bankruptcy notices, etc., this is another source for repossession auto auction notifications. One other way to find them is to call your local banks and ask for the Installment Loan Department. They should be able to provide you with details on their particular auctions. Many even have regular mailing lists, where they will automatically send you a notification of their auction and even a listing of what vehicles will be included. While some institutions restrict their auctions to dealers only, most will allow the public to attend and bid. Once you have found an auction, be sure to get all the details BEFORE you go. You'll need to know if there are any minimum bid requirements, what type of payment they need, and what type of paperwork they provide to the purchasers. Many auctions will sell everything to the highest bidder, no matter how low the bid is. Still others may have a minimum bid they must get, or they "buy back" the car and save it for the next auction. Most institutions retain the right to bid, so be aware that you may be not only be bidding against other people interested in the vehicle, but also against the auctioneer!
While most auctions will publish their requirements for payment along with the auction notification, DON'T assume that that's all there is to it. Find out if they expect cash only, certified checks or personal checks. Also, many require full payment immediately after the sale, while others may require a non-refundable deposit with the balance due in a few days. All too often I have seen people make costly errors at auctions because they didn't understand these payment rules.
In this day and age of red tape, titles, liens, etc., the paperwork an institution provides is as important as anything else. In New York State, for example, if the institution sells the vehicle with "as-is" marked on the bill of sale, you may encounter a legal nightmare that involves a major full-vehicle inspection and an 8 to 10 week wait for a title search and registration procedure that will prevent you from putting the vehicle on the road for months. It is imperative, therefore, that you find out specifically what paperwork the institution will give you when you purchase a vehicle through their auction. If you plan on registering the car right away, tell them that and make sure you are satisfied that they will give you what you need. If in doubt, contact your local Motor Vehicle office ahead of time to insure that you'll be able to proceed with what the institution will be giving you. Laws vary dramatically from state to state. Above all, make sure that all liens have been satisfied before you purchase a repossessed vehicle. Most banks and financial institutions will give you some type of form to verify this.
OK... now you've found the auction and understand the rules and requirements. The next step is finding the vehicle that fits your needs. In order to know what the vehicle's value is before you bid on it, you'll need a good resource of wholesale and retail pricing. One good source is the NADA "Blue Book". This book lists cars and light trucks by manufacturer and body style, giving you the current average wholesale and retail for each. I have used a book called "Edmund's Used Car Prices" for the past 15 years or so, and found them to be a very reliable source. Like the NADA book, it lists the cars and light trucks by manufacturer and year (usually the past 7 model years), and provides the vehicle's original list price, current average wholesale and retail. It also provides you with a list of popular options, and what they add to the value of the car or truck. There's plenty of details in the book which I won't go into here. Just make sure you read the "How to Use This Book" section thoroughly before you start using it. Options such as air conditioning, power steering and brakes and type of transmission may dramatically affect the value of the vehicle. Also, excessive mileage for that particular year car or truck will affect the value. So, read the book and know how to use it BEFORE you get to the auction.
Visit my site at www.helpmebuyacar.bravehost.com
About The Author
My name is Thomas Miller, I'm student here in Detroit, MI. I love to do research, I love to write and most of all I cars.
thomasmiller2005@aol.com
This article was posted on December 30, 2004
by: Thomas H. Miller
This is Part 1 of a 4 part series on how to buy a car at an auction
So you are looking for a car or truck, but you're tired of running around town and finding other people selling their "headaches" through the local classifieds, or dealers offering "cream-puffs" for inflated retail prices. All you want is a good vehicle for a good price. Period. Does such a deal exist? Yes, indeed! Repossession auctions are becoming more and more popular across the country. I have been attending them for over 20 years, and have purchased many cars and trucks at bargain prices - everything from a brand new car (still with the window sticker on it and 3 miles on the odometer) for $1,100 below the sticker price, to a conversion van with 99,000 miles on it. Both of these vehicles are still in the family and running strong.
1. What I'd like to do here is share my experiences with you, and give you some tips on how you, too, can find these bargains.
First of all, how do you find the auctions? Your local paper is a good place to start. Many banks and other financial institutions (such as GMAC) list the times and places of their auctions in Sunday papers under "Auctions" or "Cars for Sale". Also, if there is a "legal publication" in your area, that publishes court proceedings, bankruptcy notices, etc., this is another source for repossession auto auction notifications. One other way to find them is to call your local banks and ask for the Installment Loan Department. They should be able to provide you with details on their particular auctions. Many even have regular mailing lists, where they will automatically send you a notification of their auction and even a listing of what vehicles will be included. While some institutions restrict their auctions to dealers only, most will allow the public to attend and bid. Once you have found an auction, be sure to get all the details BEFORE you go. You'll need to know if there are any minimum bid requirements, what type of payment they need, and what type of paperwork they provide to the purchasers. Many auctions will sell everything to the highest bidder, no matter how low the bid is. Still others may have a minimum bid they must get, or they "buy back" the car and save it for the next auction. Most institutions retain the right to bid, so be aware that you may be not only be bidding against other people interested in the vehicle, but also against the auctioneer!
While most auctions will publish their requirements for payment along with the auction notification, DON'T assume that that's all there is to it. Find out if they expect cash only, certified checks or personal checks. Also, many require full payment immediately after the sale, while others may require a non-refundable deposit with the balance due in a few days. All too often I have seen people make costly errors at auctions because they didn't understand these payment rules.
In this day and age of red tape, titles, liens, etc., the paperwork an institution provides is as important as anything else. In New York State, for example, if the institution sells the vehicle with "as-is" marked on the bill of sale, you may encounter a legal nightmare that involves a major full-vehicle inspection and an 8 to 10 week wait for a title search and registration procedure that will prevent you from putting the vehicle on the road for months. It is imperative, therefore, that you find out specifically what paperwork the institution will give you when you purchase a vehicle through their auction. If you plan on registering the car right away, tell them that and make sure you are satisfied that they will give you what you need. If in doubt, contact your local Motor Vehicle office ahead of time to insure that you'll be able to proceed with what the institution will be giving you. Laws vary dramatically from state to state. Above all, make sure that all liens have been satisfied before you purchase a repossessed vehicle. Most banks and financial institutions will give you some type of form to verify this.
OK... now you've found the auction and understand the rules and requirements. The next step is finding the vehicle that fits your needs. In order to know what the vehicle's value is before you bid on it, you'll need a good resource of wholesale and retail pricing. One good source is the NADA "Blue Book". This book lists cars and light trucks by manufacturer and body style, giving you the current average wholesale and retail for each. I have used a book called "Edmund's Used Car Prices" for the past 15 years or so, and found them to be a very reliable source. Like the NADA book, it lists the cars and light trucks by manufacturer and year (usually the past 7 model years), and provides the vehicle's original list price, current average wholesale and retail. It also provides you with a list of popular options, and what they add to the value of the car or truck. There's plenty of details in the book which I won't go into here. Just make sure you read the "How to Use This Book" section thoroughly before you start using it. Options such as air conditioning, power steering and brakes and type of transmission may dramatically affect the value of the vehicle. Also, excessive mileage for that particular year car or truck will affect the value. So, read the book and know how to use it BEFORE you get to the auction.
Visit my site at www.helpmebuyacar.bravehost.com
About The Author
My name is Thomas Miller, I'm student here in Detroit, MI. I love to do research, I love to write and most of all I cars.
thomasmiller2005@aol.com
This article was posted on December 30, 2004
Checking Fluids
Checking Fluids
by: Kevin Schappell
Keeping your vehicle in tip-top shape requires constant monitoring of vital fluids. Read you owners manual and look for a diagram of the engine. Most times there will be a diagram showing where to check all the major fluids. This should be your starting point. If your manual is lost in the glove box or you never had one, then ask your mechanic or a friend who knows cars to show you all the places to check. There are 4 major levels to check on most cars.
Engine oil - Usually towards the front of the engine and marked "OIL" Always check your oil level with the engine OFF. Remove the dipstick and wipe the oil off with the rag or towel then put the dipstick back into the hole. Now pull out and get a reading. You might have to hold the dipstick to the light to get a good reading as fresh oil can sometimes be hard to see. On the dipstick there will be two marks indicating a maximum and minimum level for the oil. Make it a habit of checking your oil every two weeks.
Transmission fluid - If you have an automatic transmission then you will have a dipstick to check the fluid level. It is most commonly found towards the back of the engine compartment or towards the passenger side. You should find out how to check the fluid by looking at the owner’s manual or on the dipstick itself. Most cars have to be running with the transmission in park or neutral. Also the transmission should be warmed up to give a true reading. Make sure the car has been driven for a short distance to make sure everything is up to operating temperature. Checking the level is just like checking your oil, wipe off dipstick, replace, pull out again and check level. If you have a manual transmission there is no dipstick and to check the fluid level you must crawl under the car and remove a fill plug. I would have your mechanic check this for you once a year if you do not feel comfortable doing this.
Engine coolant - -- CAUTION -- Never open your radiator cap when the engine is hot ! The pressure in the system can send hot coolant splashing out on to you. Most cars have an overflow bottle, which will have level markings. Keep the coolant between these markings. If you have to open the radiator, make sure the engine is cold.
Power steering fluid - Your car uses oil to assist in steering the car. The fluid is usually checked at the pump, but can be away from the pump in a separate reservoir. Like the transmission, this fluid should also be checked when up to operating temperature. Most commonly the level is measured by a small dipstick attached to the cap of the reservoir.
Brake fluid - On most newer cars you can check brake fluid level without removing the cap on the master cylinder. There will be level markings on the side of the plastic reservoir. If you have to remove the cover to check the fluid level, be careful not to spill any fluid on the surrounding paint. Brake fluid makes a nice paint remover :-)
Windshield washer fluid - That's the magic blue liquid that squirts out of your hood. Most reservoirs have the level marked on the side but some newer cars have them buried underneath everything so you can not see. Just fill to the top, there is no harm in overfilling.
If you need to add any fluids to bring the levels up, a funnel is helpful to avoid spills. Keep track of how often you add oil, and transmission fluid. Frequent additions can point to leaks and engine wear.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
by: Kevin Schappell
Keeping your vehicle in tip-top shape requires constant monitoring of vital fluids. Read you owners manual and look for a diagram of the engine. Most times there will be a diagram showing where to check all the major fluids. This should be your starting point. If your manual is lost in the glove box or you never had one, then ask your mechanic or a friend who knows cars to show you all the places to check. There are 4 major levels to check on most cars.
Engine oil - Usually towards the front of the engine and marked "OIL" Always check your oil level with the engine OFF. Remove the dipstick and wipe the oil off with the rag or towel then put the dipstick back into the hole. Now pull out and get a reading. You might have to hold the dipstick to the light to get a good reading as fresh oil can sometimes be hard to see. On the dipstick there will be two marks indicating a maximum and minimum level for the oil. Make it a habit of checking your oil every two weeks.
Transmission fluid - If you have an automatic transmission then you will have a dipstick to check the fluid level. It is most commonly found towards the back of the engine compartment or towards the passenger side. You should find out how to check the fluid by looking at the owner’s manual or on the dipstick itself. Most cars have to be running with the transmission in park or neutral. Also the transmission should be warmed up to give a true reading. Make sure the car has been driven for a short distance to make sure everything is up to operating temperature. Checking the level is just like checking your oil, wipe off dipstick, replace, pull out again and check level. If you have a manual transmission there is no dipstick and to check the fluid level you must crawl under the car and remove a fill plug. I would have your mechanic check this for you once a year if you do not feel comfortable doing this.
Engine coolant - -- CAUTION -- Never open your radiator cap when the engine is hot ! The pressure in the system can send hot coolant splashing out on to you. Most cars have an overflow bottle, which will have level markings. Keep the coolant between these markings. If you have to open the radiator, make sure the engine is cold.
Power steering fluid - Your car uses oil to assist in steering the car. The fluid is usually checked at the pump, but can be away from the pump in a separate reservoir. Like the transmission, this fluid should also be checked when up to operating temperature. Most commonly the level is measured by a small dipstick attached to the cap of the reservoir.
Brake fluid - On most newer cars you can check brake fluid level without removing the cap on the master cylinder. There will be level markings on the side of the plastic reservoir. If you have to remove the cover to check the fluid level, be careful not to spill any fluid on the surrounding paint. Brake fluid makes a nice paint remover :-)
Windshield washer fluid - That's the magic blue liquid that squirts out of your hood. Most reservoirs have the level marked on the side but some newer cars have them buried underneath everything so you can not see. Just fill to the top, there is no harm in overfilling.
If you need to add any fluids to bring the levels up, a funnel is helpful to avoid spills. Keep track of how often you add oil, and transmission fluid. Frequent additions can point to leaks and engine wear.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
Auto Tools For The DIY'er
Auto Tools For The DIY'er
by: Kevin Schappell
If you are a car owner who occasionally works on his or her own car, please don't go out and spend thousands of dollars on high priced tools. Professional mechanics make a living with their tools and need the best. If you are doing minor repairs on your own vehicles a lower cost tool set will do just fine. We have teamed up with AutoBarn.com to bring you the best price on tools for the DIYer. Keep in mind you can find most of these tools at your local parts store, but probably not at these prices. Let's look at the basics you will need for most common jobs.
The oil change:
Lifting tools: To gain access to the oil pan you need to get the front wheels off of the ground safely. Never leave the car supported only by a jack. A good set of jack stands or ramps are the safest way to go. Also don't forget to chock up the rear wheels to keep the car from sliding back. Even though you may have the emergency brake set, they can fail.
Oil filter wrench: Nothing is more frustrating than trying to get an oil filter off without the right wrench. I have gone to the extent of poking a screwdriver through the filter to spin it off..... this is not the cleanest way to change an oil filter.
Funnel: You have to get the new oil into the engine, and the less you spill, the less will burn off later while driving. Any funnel will do, but look for one with a long flexible neck, which will help getting into those tight places.
The brake job:
Disc brakes: You will need some special hex or torx sockets to get the caliper loose. Do not try using the wrong tool like a vise-grips or filed down bit.... you will damage the bolts. You will also need to retract the brake pistons once you have the old pads out. Using a C-clamp does work, but you have to be careful not to damage the pistons.
Drum brakes: There are special tools, which allow you to remove the clips, which hold the shoes to the backing plate. Also you will need an adjuster to adjust the shoes once you have everything back together.
Bleeding the brakes: Get a good kit, which includes a sealed container to collect the expelled brake fluid.
General tools:
A good Quality Tool Set: Make sure you have metric wrenches as all import cars have metric fasteners and most if not all-new domestic cars do also. If you plan on doing advanced work, or plan on eventually working as a professional mechanic consider buying a set of Craftsman tools. I have found them to be the best value and you cannot beat the lifetime guarantee. Plus wherever you are, there is a Sears store to take your broken tools in for replacement.
Auto Repair Manual: You wouldn't bake a cake without a recipe.... would you?? Make sure you have a manual by your side before you start working on your car. I can only give you general guidelines, but the manual will give you all of the specifics for your car, truck or SUV.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
by: Kevin Schappell
If you are a car owner who occasionally works on his or her own car, please don't go out and spend thousands of dollars on high priced tools. Professional mechanics make a living with their tools and need the best. If you are doing minor repairs on your own vehicles a lower cost tool set will do just fine. We have teamed up with AutoBarn.com to bring you the best price on tools for the DIYer. Keep in mind you can find most of these tools at your local parts store, but probably not at these prices. Let's look at the basics you will need for most common jobs.
The oil change:
Lifting tools: To gain access to the oil pan you need to get the front wheels off of the ground safely. Never leave the car supported only by a jack. A good set of jack stands or ramps are the safest way to go. Also don't forget to chock up the rear wheels to keep the car from sliding back. Even though you may have the emergency brake set, they can fail.
Oil filter wrench: Nothing is more frustrating than trying to get an oil filter off without the right wrench. I have gone to the extent of poking a screwdriver through the filter to spin it off..... this is not the cleanest way to change an oil filter.
Funnel: You have to get the new oil into the engine, and the less you spill, the less will burn off later while driving. Any funnel will do, but look for one with a long flexible neck, which will help getting into those tight places.
The brake job:
Disc brakes: You will need some special hex or torx sockets to get the caliper loose. Do not try using the wrong tool like a vise-grips or filed down bit.... you will damage the bolts. You will also need to retract the brake pistons once you have the old pads out. Using a C-clamp does work, but you have to be careful not to damage the pistons.
Drum brakes: There are special tools, which allow you to remove the clips, which hold the shoes to the backing plate. Also you will need an adjuster to adjust the shoes once you have everything back together.
Bleeding the brakes: Get a good kit, which includes a sealed container to collect the expelled brake fluid.
General tools:
A good Quality Tool Set: Make sure you have metric wrenches as all import cars have metric fasteners and most if not all-new domestic cars do also. If you plan on doing advanced work, or plan on eventually working as a professional mechanic consider buying a set of Craftsman tools. I have found them to be the best value and you cannot beat the lifetime guarantee. Plus wherever you are, there is a Sears store to take your broken tools in for replacement.
Auto Repair Manual: You wouldn't bake a cake without a recipe.... would you?? Make sure you have a manual by your side before you start working on your car. I can only give you general guidelines, but the manual will give you all of the specifics for your car, truck or SUV.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
How Your Cars Suspension Works
How Your Cars Suspension Works
by: Kevin Schappell
"Suspension," when discussing cars, refers to the use of front and rear springs to suspend a vehicle's "sprung" weight. The springs used on today's cars and trucks are constructed in a variety of types, shapes, sizes, rates, and capacities. Types include leaf springs, coil springs, air springs, and torsion bars. These are used in sets of four for each vehicle, or they may be paired off in various combinations and are attached by several different mounting techniques. The suspension system also includes shocks and/or struts, and sway bars.
Back in the earliest days of automobile development, when most of the car's weight (including the engine) was on the rear axle, steering was a simple matter of turning a tiller that pivoted the entire front axle. When the engine was moved to the front of the car, complex steering systems had to evolve. The modern automobile has come a long way since the days when "being self-propelled" was enough to satisfy the car owner. Improvements in suspension and steering, increased strength and durability of components, and advances in tire design and construction have made large contributions to riding comfort and to safe driving.
Cadillac allegedly produced the first American car to use a steering wheel instead of a tiller.
Two of the most common steering mechanisms are the "rack and pinion" and the standard (or recirculating-ball) systems that can be either manual or assisted by power. The rack and pinion was designed for sports cars and requires too much driver muscle at low speeds to be very useful in larger, heavier cars. However, power steering makes a heavy car respond easily to the steering wheel, whether at highway speeds or inching into a narrow parking place, and it is normal equipment for large automobiles.
The suspension system has two basic functions, to keep the car's wheels in firm contact with the road and to provide a comfortable ride for the passengers. A lot of the system's work is done by the springs. Under normal conditions, the springs support the body of the car evenly by compressing and rebounding with every up-and-down movement. This up-and-down movement, however, causes bouncing and swaying after each bump and is very uncomfortable to the passenger. These undesirable effects are reduced by the shock absorbers.
The above information is directly from the Auto Insight program, which you can buy online from AutoEducation.com.
Common Problems:
Shocks and struts can wear out and affect handling. If you car bounces excessively over bumps and leans hard in corners, your shocks could be warn. Look behind the wheel for the shock or strut and look for leaking oil. This is a sure sign of a worn shock or strut.
Ball joints. Ball joints wear and can cause your car to wander while driving down the road. This is dangerous as they can separate and cause you to lose control.
Preventive maintenance:
Check your shocks or struts for leakage frequently. Also pay attention to how your car handles. If you notice the ride deteriorating take your car in to have the struts checked.
Ball joints should be checked when your car is inspected, if not, have your mechanic check them at least twice a year.
At each oil change make sure you or your mechanic lubricates the ball joints and any other suspension components. Some components cannot be lubricated as they are sealed from the factory.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
by: Kevin Schappell
"Suspension," when discussing cars, refers to the use of front and rear springs to suspend a vehicle's "sprung" weight. The springs used on today's cars and trucks are constructed in a variety of types, shapes, sizes, rates, and capacities. Types include leaf springs, coil springs, air springs, and torsion bars. These are used in sets of four for each vehicle, or they may be paired off in various combinations and are attached by several different mounting techniques. The suspension system also includes shocks and/or struts, and sway bars.
Back in the earliest days of automobile development, when most of the car's weight (including the engine) was on the rear axle, steering was a simple matter of turning a tiller that pivoted the entire front axle. When the engine was moved to the front of the car, complex steering systems had to evolve. The modern automobile has come a long way since the days when "being self-propelled" was enough to satisfy the car owner. Improvements in suspension and steering, increased strength and durability of components, and advances in tire design and construction have made large contributions to riding comfort and to safe driving.
Cadillac allegedly produced the first American car to use a steering wheel instead of a tiller.
Two of the most common steering mechanisms are the "rack and pinion" and the standard (or recirculating-ball) systems that can be either manual or assisted by power. The rack and pinion was designed for sports cars and requires too much driver muscle at low speeds to be very useful in larger, heavier cars. However, power steering makes a heavy car respond easily to the steering wheel, whether at highway speeds or inching into a narrow parking place, and it is normal equipment for large automobiles.
The suspension system has two basic functions, to keep the car's wheels in firm contact with the road and to provide a comfortable ride for the passengers. A lot of the system's work is done by the springs. Under normal conditions, the springs support the body of the car evenly by compressing and rebounding with every up-and-down movement. This up-and-down movement, however, causes bouncing and swaying after each bump and is very uncomfortable to the passenger. These undesirable effects are reduced by the shock absorbers.
The above information is directly from the Auto Insight program, which you can buy online from AutoEducation.com.
Common Problems:
Shocks and struts can wear out and affect handling. If you car bounces excessively over bumps and leans hard in corners, your shocks could be warn. Look behind the wheel for the shock or strut and look for leaking oil. This is a sure sign of a worn shock or strut.
Ball joints. Ball joints wear and can cause your car to wander while driving down the road. This is dangerous as they can separate and cause you to lose control.
Preventive maintenance:
Check your shocks or struts for leakage frequently. Also pay attention to how your car handles. If you notice the ride deteriorating take your car in to have the struts checked.
Ball joints should be checked when your car is inspected, if not, have your mechanic check them at least twice a year.
At each oil change make sure you or your mechanic lubricates the ball joints and any other suspension components. Some components cannot be lubricated as they are sealed from the factory.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
Your Cars Electrical System
Your Cars Electrical System
by: Kevin Schappell
When the automotive industry was in its infancy, it used electricity only to ignite the fuel inside the engine. By the late 1920's, the electric starter replaced the hand crank, electric headlights made acetylene lamps obsolete and the braying of the electric horn drowned out the squeak of the hand-squeezed air horn. Today, an automobile requires an elaborate electrical system of circuits just to produce, store, and distribute all the electricity it requires simply for everyday operation.
The first major component in the electrical system is the battery. The battery is used to store power for starting, and for running auxiliary devices such as clocks, radios and alarms when the engine is off. The next major component is the starter motor, which is used to start the engine. The third component is a charging device powered by the engine, known as the alternator. It powers the electrical system when the car is running, and restores the charge within the battery. With these basic components, the car maintains its supply of electricity. A device called the voltage regulator keeps the power level stabilized, and the fuse box keeps minor problems from becoming major ones.
Many different auxiliary electrical devices are used in modern cars, such as: radios, cellular phones, rear window defrosters and electric door locks, as well as a vast array of motors powering everything from the moon roof on down.
The above information is directly from the Auto Insight program, which you can buy online from AutoEducation.com.
Common Problems:
The battery is usually the first part of the system to wear out. Most batteries last between 3 and 7 years depending on brand and design. Batteries can be fine on minute, and dead the next. More on this later.
Blown fuse: Is one part of the electrical system not working like the interior lights or dash lights? The first thing to check is the fuses. Look for the fuse panel under the dash, in the glove box, or even in the engine compartment in some cars. Most fuse boxes will be labeled by circuit. Modern cars use a blade type fuse which is rectangular in shape and transparent. Look for the wire, which runs through the fuse, and see if it is burned through. Any discoloring of the fuse is a good sign the fuse has blown. If you have doubts, replace with a new fuse and test the system, which is not working.
Alternator: Does your car start ok, but your headlights dim when idling. It could be a bad alternator. When the alternator cannot produce enough electricity to keep the electrical systems running and the battery will have to be used to take up the slack. This will eventually wear down the battery and not allow your car to start.
Troubleshooting:
I don't think there is a tougher system to troubleshoot on your car than the charging/starting system. This is due to the fact that there are many things that can go wrong and it's tough to test some components without special equipment. Let's go over some possible situations and their possible causes.
Car won't start, all I hear is a click but the engine does not turn.
First check all battery cables for corrosion as this will keep power from flowing freely to the starting system. If they are dirty, clean with a wire brush and reattach. Apply a light coat of grease to the top of the terminals to prevent further corrosion.
Battery could not have enough power stored in it to spin the engine. This can be caused by a bad cell in the battery or from a bad alternator not charging the battery when the engine is running. If you can get the car to a mechanic, have him or her test the battery and charging system with a special tester. This tester places a load on the battery and can tell the condition. They can also check to see if the alternator is working to it's full potential.
Starter or solenoid could be bad. If you can not jump start the car and all of the battery cables are ok then suspect the starter.
Car won't start, I hear nothing.
Check battery cables as above.
Have the battery tested. There could be a bad cell causing a short. You can try jump-starting but often the car will not stay running.
Car won't start, all I hear is a horrible grinding noise.
Grinding noises point to the starter not properly meshing with the flywheel. This can be caused by a bad solenoid or a bad spot on the flywheel.
I have also seen starters loosen up so they no longer contact the flywheel at the proper distance. While not common, it is something to keep in mind.
Car starts but my headlights are dim at low engine speeds.
Look to the alternator for problems. Take the car to your mechanic to have the alternator checked for proper operation.
Check for loose wires going to the alternator. Also check for corrosion, as this will inhibit the alternator from charging properly.
Check the tension on the alternator belt. If it is too loose, the belt may slip and not drive the alternator properly.
As you can see there are plenty of things to go wrong with the charging system and it is always best to take the car to your mechanic and have it tested before you go replacing parts blindly.
Preventing problems with your electrical system:
Replace your battery every 4 years as a safety measure. It will save allot of headaches down the road.
If your battery is not a sealed unit, check fluid levels in each cell. Only fill with distilled water and be careful around the acid, which is in the battery.
Check your alternator belt frequently for cracks and tension. Replace per your cars manufacturers recommendations.
Clean your battery connections at least once a year. Parts stores sell a handy terminal cleaner which is basically a round wire brush, which works wonders. Once you reattach the terminals, coat with a layer of heavy grease or special purpose grease sold at parts stores. This layer will block the air from reacting with the connectors and creating corrosion.
How to jump start your car:
Jump-starting your car does not have to be a hard task. First lay out the cables on the ground between the two cars. Make sure that the cable is not tangled and none of the end clamps are touching each other. The car with the good battery should be running.
Step 1: Take the positive (red) clamp closest to the car with the good battery and hook it to the positive terminal of that car. The positive terminal will have a + sign on it and usually a red wire running to it.
Step 2: Repeat this step on the car with the bad battery, hooking up the positive clamp to the positive terminal on the battery. Make sure the clamps are contacting well and can not fall off.
Step 3: Take the negative cable (black) closest to the car with the good battery and hook it to the negative terminal of the battery. The negative terminal will have a - sign and usually a black wire running to it.
Step 4: This is the last step and the most important. Take the negative clamp closest to the car with the bad battery and attach it to a bare metal part of the engine. DO NOT hook it to the batteries negative terminal as there maybe hydrogen gas present from the battery and a spark from the connection could cause an explosion.
That's it...... turn the key on the dead car and the car should start. If it does not, try revving the engine on the good car to boost the charge coming from the alternator. If this does not work, try wiggling the cables to assure you have a good connection. GOOD sets of jumper cables are a necessity. I have had cheaper sets not jump-start a dead car. I actually had to double up two cheap sets to get enough current to start my car. The cheaper sets will have thinner cables, which cannot carry enough amperage to start some stalled cars. I would suggest buying a cable, which has 4,6 or 8-gauge wire.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
by: Kevin Schappell
When the automotive industry was in its infancy, it used electricity only to ignite the fuel inside the engine. By the late 1920's, the electric starter replaced the hand crank, electric headlights made acetylene lamps obsolete and the braying of the electric horn drowned out the squeak of the hand-squeezed air horn. Today, an automobile requires an elaborate electrical system of circuits just to produce, store, and distribute all the electricity it requires simply for everyday operation.
The first major component in the electrical system is the battery. The battery is used to store power for starting, and for running auxiliary devices such as clocks, radios and alarms when the engine is off. The next major component is the starter motor, which is used to start the engine. The third component is a charging device powered by the engine, known as the alternator. It powers the electrical system when the car is running, and restores the charge within the battery. With these basic components, the car maintains its supply of electricity. A device called the voltage regulator keeps the power level stabilized, and the fuse box keeps minor problems from becoming major ones.
Many different auxiliary electrical devices are used in modern cars, such as: radios, cellular phones, rear window defrosters and electric door locks, as well as a vast array of motors powering everything from the moon roof on down.
The above information is directly from the Auto Insight program, which you can buy online from AutoEducation.com.
Common Problems:
The battery is usually the first part of the system to wear out. Most batteries last between 3 and 7 years depending on brand and design. Batteries can be fine on minute, and dead the next. More on this later.
Blown fuse: Is one part of the electrical system not working like the interior lights or dash lights? The first thing to check is the fuses. Look for the fuse panel under the dash, in the glove box, or even in the engine compartment in some cars. Most fuse boxes will be labeled by circuit. Modern cars use a blade type fuse which is rectangular in shape and transparent. Look for the wire, which runs through the fuse, and see if it is burned through. Any discoloring of the fuse is a good sign the fuse has blown. If you have doubts, replace with a new fuse and test the system, which is not working.
Alternator: Does your car start ok, but your headlights dim when idling. It could be a bad alternator. When the alternator cannot produce enough electricity to keep the electrical systems running and the battery will have to be used to take up the slack. This will eventually wear down the battery and not allow your car to start.
Troubleshooting:
I don't think there is a tougher system to troubleshoot on your car than the charging/starting system. This is due to the fact that there are many things that can go wrong and it's tough to test some components without special equipment. Let's go over some possible situations and their possible causes.
Car won't start, all I hear is a click but the engine does not turn.
First check all battery cables for corrosion as this will keep power from flowing freely to the starting system. If they are dirty, clean with a wire brush and reattach. Apply a light coat of grease to the top of the terminals to prevent further corrosion.
Battery could not have enough power stored in it to spin the engine. This can be caused by a bad cell in the battery or from a bad alternator not charging the battery when the engine is running. If you can get the car to a mechanic, have him or her test the battery and charging system with a special tester. This tester places a load on the battery and can tell the condition. They can also check to see if the alternator is working to it's full potential.
Starter or solenoid could be bad. If you can not jump start the car and all of the battery cables are ok then suspect the starter.
Car won't start, I hear nothing.
Check battery cables as above.
Have the battery tested. There could be a bad cell causing a short. You can try jump-starting but often the car will not stay running.
Car won't start, all I hear is a horrible grinding noise.
Grinding noises point to the starter not properly meshing with the flywheel. This can be caused by a bad solenoid or a bad spot on the flywheel.
I have also seen starters loosen up so they no longer contact the flywheel at the proper distance. While not common, it is something to keep in mind.
Car starts but my headlights are dim at low engine speeds.
Look to the alternator for problems. Take the car to your mechanic to have the alternator checked for proper operation.
Check for loose wires going to the alternator. Also check for corrosion, as this will inhibit the alternator from charging properly.
Check the tension on the alternator belt. If it is too loose, the belt may slip and not drive the alternator properly.
As you can see there are plenty of things to go wrong with the charging system and it is always best to take the car to your mechanic and have it tested before you go replacing parts blindly.
Preventing problems with your electrical system:
Replace your battery every 4 years as a safety measure. It will save allot of headaches down the road.
If your battery is not a sealed unit, check fluid levels in each cell. Only fill with distilled water and be careful around the acid, which is in the battery.
Check your alternator belt frequently for cracks and tension. Replace per your cars manufacturers recommendations.
Clean your battery connections at least once a year. Parts stores sell a handy terminal cleaner which is basically a round wire brush, which works wonders. Once you reattach the terminals, coat with a layer of heavy grease or special purpose grease sold at parts stores. This layer will block the air from reacting with the connectors and creating corrosion.
How to jump start your car:
Jump-starting your car does not have to be a hard task. First lay out the cables on the ground between the two cars. Make sure that the cable is not tangled and none of the end clamps are touching each other. The car with the good battery should be running.
Step 1: Take the positive (red) clamp closest to the car with the good battery and hook it to the positive terminal of that car. The positive terminal will have a + sign on it and usually a red wire running to it.
Step 2: Repeat this step on the car with the bad battery, hooking up the positive clamp to the positive terminal on the battery. Make sure the clamps are contacting well and can not fall off.
Step 3: Take the negative cable (black) closest to the car with the good battery and hook it to the negative terminal of the battery. The negative terminal will have a - sign and usually a black wire running to it.
Step 4: This is the last step and the most important. Take the negative clamp closest to the car with the bad battery and attach it to a bare metal part of the engine. DO NOT hook it to the batteries negative terminal as there maybe hydrogen gas present from the battery and a spark from the connection could cause an explosion.
That's it...... turn the key on the dead car and the car should start. If it does not, try revving the engine on the good car to boost the charge coming from the alternator. If this does not work, try wiggling the cables to assure you have a good connection. GOOD sets of jumper cables are a necessity. I have had cheaper sets not jump-start a dead car. I actually had to double up two cheap sets to get enough current to start my car. The cheaper sets will have thinner cables, which cannot carry enough amperage to start some stalled cars. I would suggest buying a cable, which has 4,6 or 8-gauge wire.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
.Changing a Tire
Changing a Tire
by: Kevin Schappell
It always happens at the worst times! You need to know how to change a tire even if you have an auto club membership. Depending on where you get a flat, there may not be a phone nearby to call a tow truck. Let's take is step by step and always remember to read your owners manual, there will be detailed instructions relating to your car there. I should mention also a few tips for getting to the side of the road safely if you have a blowout on the road.
Stay calm, do not panic
Slowly take your foot off of the gas and let the vehicle coast to a stop.
Do not make any sudden braking or steering actions.
Put your flashers on to alert other drivers.
Now that you are safely off of the road.
Step 1: Make sure you are on firm level ground and away from traffic. If you are not, then try to drive to a better spot, but only if you can do it safely. Avoid going back onto the road and into traffic.
Step 2: Set your emergency brake and put the car in Park or 1st gear if you have a manual transmission. Make sure the engine is turned off.
Step 3: Locate the spare tire, jack, and lug wrench. These are usually located in the trunk underneath the carpet on cars. Trucks usually have the jack and lug wrench behind the seat or under the hood, with the spare tire under the bed.
Step 4: Typically there are instructions printed on the jack or somewhere near the storage compartment. Read these instructions, they will tell you where to jack the vehicle and any special steps you will need to take.
Step 5: First remove the hubcap or wheel cover. The lug wrench often has a flat end, which you can use to pry off the cover. If not, a screwdriver will work just fine.
Step 6: Before you jack the car up you will want to break loose the lug nuts. The weight of the car will keep the wheel from spinning and allow you to apply more force to the nuts. You do not want to completely remove the lug nuts yet.... just break them loose. Once the lug nut begins to move, STOP and move onto the next one. I often carry a small pipe, which will fit over the lug wrench. This pipe can provide additional leverage and allow you to get those stubborn lug nuts off. Always remember righty tighty, lefty loosy. Turn the lug nuts left or counter clockwise to loosen.
Step 7: Now it's time to jack up the car. Make sure you know where the manufacturer has placed jacking points by reading the owners manual or the instructions near or on the jack. Most cars will have a reinforced lip where the jack can be placed. If you can not locate this, look for a solid portion of the frame to jack on. Make sure the jack is on firm level ground and start jacking. Take it slowly and only go as far as you need to get the wheel off.
Step 8: The wheel is off the ground and it's time to remove the lug nuts. Use the wrench or your fingers to remove the nuts. Slowly take the wheel off and set it to the side.
Step 9: Get the new wheel and put it on the car. Tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can without the wheel spinning. Don't worry about getting the nuts super tight, as you will do the final tightening when the car is off of the jack.
Step 10: Let the car down off of the jack and get your lug wrench. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern if there are five nuts. Start with one lug nut and skip the next one until they are all tight. If you have 4 nuts, just tighten the opposite nut from where you started and then the remaining two in any order.
Step 11: Replace your wheel cover or hubcap and clean up the jack, lug wrench and blown tire. If your spare tire had air in it, you should be able to continue your journey.
Finally: Remember if you have a temporary spare tire (AKA doughnut) you can only drive a few miles to a service station and usually not over 50 MPH.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
by: Kevin Schappell
It always happens at the worst times! You need to know how to change a tire even if you have an auto club membership. Depending on where you get a flat, there may not be a phone nearby to call a tow truck. Let's take is step by step and always remember to read your owners manual, there will be detailed instructions relating to your car there. I should mention also a few tips for getting to the side of the road safely if you have a blowout on the road.
Stay calm, do not panic
Slowly take your foot off of the gas and let the vehicle coast to a stop.
Do not make any sudden braking or steering actions.
Put your flashers on to alert other drivers.
Now that you are safely off of the road.
Step 1: Make sure you are on firm level ground and away from traffic. If you are not, then try to drive to a better spot, but only if you can do it safely. Avoid going back onto the road and into traffic.
Step 2: Set your emergency brake and put the car in Park or 1st gear if you have a manual transmission. Make sure the engine is turned off.
Step 3: Locate the spare tire, jack, and lug wrench. These are usually located in the trunk underneath the carpet on cars. Trucks usually have the jack and lug wrench behind the seat or under the hood, with the spare tire under the bed.
Step 4: Typically there are instructions printed on the jack or somewhere near the storage compartment. Read these instructions, they will tell you where to jack the vehicle and any special steps you will need to take.
Step 5: First remove the hubcap or wheel cover. The lug wrench often has a flat end, which you can use to pry off the cover. If not, a screwdriver will work just fine.
Step 6: Before you jack the car up you will want to break loose the lug nuts. The weight of the car will keep the wheel from spinning and allow you to apply more force to the nuts. You do not want to completely remove the lug nuts yet.... just break them loose. Once the lug nut begins to move, STOP and move onto the next one. I often carry a small pipe, which will fit over the lug wrench. This pipe can provide additional leverage and allow you to get those stubborn lug nuts off. Always remember righty tighty, lefty loosy. Turn the lug nuts left or counter clockwise to loosen.
Step 7: Now it's time to jack up the car. Make sure you know where the manufacturer has placed jacking points by reading the owners manual or the instructions near or on the jack. Most cars will have a reinforced lip where the jack can be placed. If you can not locate this, look for a solid portion of the frame to jack on. Make sure the jack is on firm level ground and start jacking. Take it slowly and only go as far as you need to get the wheel off.
Step 8: The wheel is off the ground and it's time to remove the lug nuts. Use the wrench or your fingers to remove the nuts. Slowly take the wheel off and set it to the side.
Step 9: Get the new wheel and put it on the car. Tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can without the wheel spinning. Don't worry about getting the nuts super tight, as you will do the final tightening when the car is off of the jack.
Step 10: Let the car down off of the jack and get your lug wrench. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern if there are five nuts. Start with one lug nut and skip the next one until they are all tight. If you have 4 nuts, just tighten the opposite nut from where you started and then the remaining two in any order.
Step 11: Replace your wheel cover or hubcap and clean up the jack, lug wrench and blown tire. If your spare tire had air in it, you should be able to continue your journey.
Finally: Remember if you have a temporary spare tire (AKA doughnut) you can only drive a few miles to a service station and usually not over 50 MPH.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
Your Fuel System
Your Fuel System
by: Kevin Schappell
The fuel system feed your engine the gasoline/diesel it needs to run. If anyone of the parts in the system break down your engine will not run. Let's look at the major parts of the fuel system,
Fuel tank: Basically a holding tank for your fuel. When you fill up at a gas station the gas travels down the filler tube and into the tank. In the tank there is a sending unit, which tells the gas gauge how much gas is in the tank.
Fuel pump: On newer cars the fuel pump is usually installed in the fuel tank. Older cars have the fuel pump attached to the engine or on the frame rail between the tank and the engine. If the pump is in the tank or on the frame rail then it is electric and is run by your cars battery. Fuel pumps mounted to the engine use the motion of the engine to pump the fuel
Fuel filter: Clean fuel is critical to engine life and performance. Fuel injectors have tiny openings, which clog easily so filtering the fuel is the only way to prevent this. Filters can be before or after the fuel pump, sometimes both.
Fuel injectors: Most domestic cars after 1986 and earlier foreign cars came from the factory with fuel injection. Instead of a carburetor to mix the fuel and air, a computer controls when the fuel injectors open to let fuel into the engine. This has resulted in lower emissions and better fuel economy. The fuel injector is basically a tiny electric valve, which opens and closes with an electric signal. In the picture below you can see the injectors towards the outer part of the intake. By injecting the fuel close to the cylinder head the fuel stays atomized ( in tiny particles ) so it will burn better when ignited by the spark plug.
Carburetors: A carburetor takes the fuel and mixes it with air without computer intervention. While simple in operation, they tend to need frequent tuning and rebuilding. This is why most newer cars have done away with carburetors in favor of fuel injection.
Common Problems:
I would say the most common problem is a clogged fuel filter. Make sure you follow your manufacturers recommendations as to when you should change the fuel filter. This information should be in your owner’s manual. Symptoms include sputtering at high speeds or engine not starting at all. Always check the ignition system first, if that's ok then the next suspect is the fuel filter.
Next most common problem is the fuel pump failing. Most modern electric fuel pumps can be heard when you turn the key on. If you don't hear the pump running and your car will not start, it could be your fuel pump. The first thing a mechanic will check is the relay, which sends power to the pump. If this is operating correctly then the pump will have to be replaced.
Last but not least are dirty injectors. While the fuel filter does a good job of filtering the fuel, it's not perfect. Over time deposits and tiny particles lodge themselves in the injectors. This can clog and injector and prevent it from delivering the fuel the engine needs. It can also cause an injector to stick open and send too much fuel into the engine. A regular addition of fuel system cleaner like STP Injector Cleaner, or Techtron fuel system cleaner can help keep your injectors clean. Most gas stations, department stores and all automotive parts stores will have a good cleaner available. Add it to your empty tank right before you fill up and it will clean as you drive. I recommend doing this every 3 months to keep your injectors performing like new. Mechanics also offer a cleaning service where they actually disconnect the fuel line and flush cleaner through the engine. This is only necessary when you let your injectors get to a point where they can not be cleaned by a store-bought product. Regular use of a good in-tank cleaner will keep you from having to pay for this service.
Where do you buy your gas?
Believe it, or not, it can make a difference. Always buy from a well know national brand service station. Gas stations, which are not affiliated with one brand of gas, tend to get whatever is left at the end of the day from the delivery truck. One day them might get Texaco, and Exxon another. Also water mixed with gas will cause problems with your engine. The engine will not run right, plus the water will promote rust in the fuel system. I have experienced this when I purchased gas at some no-name gas stations. Your car will feel sluggish and sometimes refuse to run if there is enough water in the gas.
Octane rating tip!!!!
Putting super in the tank will not get you any more performance or gas mileage unless specifically recommended by your cars manufacturer. If your owners manual says put in 87 octane...... DO IT. You are throwing money out the window if you are filling up on Super or Premium and you only need Regular.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
by: Kevin Schappell
The fuel system feed your engine the gasoline/diesel it needs to run. If anyone of the parts in the system break down your engine will not run. Let's look at the major parts of the fuel system,
Fuel tank: Basically a holding tank for your fuel. When you fill up at a gas station the gas travels down the filler tube and into the tank. In the tank there is a sending unit, which tells the gas gauge how much gas is in the tank.
Fuel pump: On newer cars the fuel pump is usually installed in the fuel tank. Older cars have the fuel pump attached to the engine or on the frame rail between the tank and the engine. If the pump is in the tank or on the frame rail then it is electric and is run by your cars battery. Fuel pumps mounted to the engine use the motion of the engine to pump the fuel
Fuel filter: Clean fuel is critical to engine life and performance. Fuel injectors have tiny openings, which clog easily so filtering the fuel is the only way to prevent this. Filters can be before or after the fuel pump, sometimes both.
Fuel injectors: Most domestic cars after 1986 and earlier foreign cars came from the factory with fuel injection. Instead of a carburetor to mix the fuel and air, a computer controls when the fuel injectors open to let fuel into the engine. This has resulted in lower emissions and better fuel economy. The fuel injector is basically a tiny electric valve, which opens and closes with an electric signal. In the picture below you can see the injectors towards the outer part of the intake. By injecting the fuel close to the cylinder head the fuel stays atomized ( in tiny particles ) so it will burn better when ignited by the spark plug.
Carburetors: A carburetor takes the fuel and mixes it with air without computer intervention. While simple in operation, they tend to need frequent tuning and rebuilding. This is why most newer cars have done away with carburetors in favor of fuel injection.
Common Problems:
I would say the most common problem is a clogged fuel filter. Make sure you follow your manufacturers recommendations as to when you should change the fuel filter. This information should be in your owner’s manual. Symptoms include sputtering at high speeds or engine not starting at all. Always check the ignition system first, if that's ok then the next suspect is the fuel filter.
Next most common problem is the fuel pump failing. Most modern electric fuel pumps can be heard when you turn the key on. If you don't hear the pump running and your car will not start, it could be your fuel pump. The first thing a mechanic will check is the relay, which sends power to the pump. If this is operating correctly then the pump will have to be replaced.
Last but not least are dirty injectors. While the fuel filter does a good job of filtering the fuel, it's not perfect. Over time deposits and tiny particles lodge themselves in the injectors. This can clog and injector and prevent it from delivering the fuel the engine needs. It can also cause an injector to stick open and send too much fuel into the engine. A regular addition of fuel system cleaner like STP Injector Cleaner, or Techtron fuel system cleaner can help keep your injectors clean. Most gas stations, department stores and all automotive parts stores will have a good cleaner available. Add it to your empty tank right before you fill up and it will clean as you drive. I recommend doing this every 3 months to keep your injectors performing like new. Mechanics also offer a cleaning service where they actually disconnect the fuel line and flush cleaner through the engine. This is only necessary when you let your injectors get to a point where they can not be cleaned by a store-bought product. Regular use of a good in-tank cleaner will keep you from having to pay for this service.
Where do you buy your gas?
Believe it, or not, it can make a difference. Always buy from a well know national brand service station. Gas stations, which are not affiliated with one brand of gas, tend to get whatever is left at the end of the day from the delivery truck. One day them might get Texaco, and Exxon another. Also water mixed with gas will cause problems with your engine. The engine will not run right, plus the water will promote rust in the fuel system. I have experienced this when I purchased gas at some no-name gas stations. Your car will feel sluggish and sometimes refuse to run if there is enough water in the gas.
Octane rating tip!!!!
Putting super in the tank will not get you any more performance or gas mileage unless specifically recommended by your cars manufacturer. If your owners manual says put in 87 octane...... DO IT. You are throwing money out the window if you are filling up on Super or Premium and you only need Regular.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
Oil / Lubricants
Oil / Lubricants
by: Kevin Schappell
I receive a lot of questions regarding oil and the least understood part is the number system used to rate oils.
Oil weight, or viscosity, refers to how thick or thin the oil is. The temperature requirements set for oil, by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) is 0 degrees F (low) and 210 degrees F (high).
Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after the viscosity rating (example: 10W), and oils that meet the high ratings have no letter (example SAE 30). Oil is rated for viscosity by heating it to a specified temperature, and then allowing it to flow out of a specifically sized hole. Its viscosity rating is determined by the length of time it takes to flow out of the hole. If it flows quickly, it gets a low rating. If it flows slowly, it gets a high rating.
Engines need oil that is thin enough for cold starts, and thick enough when the engine is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated, and thicker when cooled, most of us use what are called multi-grade, or multi-viscosity oils. These oils meet SAE specifications for the low temperature requirements of a light oil and the high temperature requirements of a heavy oil. You will hear them referred to as multi-viscosity, all-season and all-weather oils. An example is a 10W-30, which is commonly found in stores. When choosing oil, always follow the manufacturer's recommendation.
Wondering how you can save money and protect your vehicle at the same time? Consider switching to synthetic oil and changing your oil at greater intervals.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
by: Kevin Schappell
I receive a lot of questions regarding oil and the least understood part is the number system used to rate oils.
Oil weight, or viscosity, refers to how thick or thin the oil is. The temperature requirements set for oil, by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) is 0 degrees F (low) and 210 degrees F (high).
Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after the viscosity rating (example: 10W), and oils that meet the high ratings have no letter (example SAE 30). Oil is rated for viscosity by heating it to a specified temperature, and then allowing it to flow out of a specifically sized hole. Its viscosity rating is determined by the length of time it takes to flow out of the hole. If it flows quickly, it gets a low rating. If it flows slowly, it gets a high rating.
Engines need oil that is thin enough for cold starts, and thick enough when the engine is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated, and thicker when cooled, most of us use what are called multi-grade, or multi-viscosity oils. These oils meet SAE specifications for the low temperature requirements of a light oil and the high temperature requirements of a heavy oil. You will hear them referred to as multi-viscosity, all-season and all-weather oils. An example is a 10W-30, which is commonly found in stores. When choosing oil, always follow the manufacturer's recommendation.
Wondering how you can save money and protect your vehicle at the same time? Consider switching to synthetic oil and changing your oil at greater intervals.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
Your Drive Train Explained
Your Drive Train Explained
by: Kevin Schappell
The drive train serves two functions: it transmits power from the engine to the drive wheels, and it varies the amount of torque. "Power" is the rate or speed at which work is performed. "Torque" is turning or twisting force. Multiple ratio gearboxes are necessary because the engine delivers its maximum power at certain speeds, or RPM (Rotations Per Minute).
In order to use the same engine RPM's at different road speeds, it is necessary to change the "Gear Ratio" between the engine and the drive wheels. Just like a bicycle, the car has to switch gears in order to move at a wide range of speeds. Unlike your bicycle, the car's drivetrain also has to allow you to back up. (Well, you could push it backwards if you ate your Wheaties)
There are actually two sets of gears in the drive train; the transmission and the differential. The transmission allows the gear ratio to be adjusted, and the differential lets the drive wheels turn at different speeds.
Manual transmissions usually have four or five speeds, and often have "overdrive", which means that the output shaft can turn faster than the input shaft for fuel economy on the highway. Some use an electric clutch and a switch that controls whether the overdrive is engaged or not. An interesting development on a few cars is the "clutchless" manual transmission, which uses a stick shift and an automatic electric clutch. Speed and position sensors, mini computers, and throttle controls keep the engine from over-revving when the driver shifts gears. As with many automotive "inventions", this is an old idea, which may now reach feasibility due to the computer revolution.
Automatic transmissions commonly use three forward gears to blend speed and torque. In the case of a three-speed transmission, first gear delivers maximum torque and minimum speed for starting. Second gear offers medium torque and speed for acceleration and hill climbing. Third gear allows maximum speed with minimum torque for highway travel. A reverse gear permits backward movement.
A transmission is a speed and power-changing device installed at some point between the engine and driving wheels of a vehicle. It provides a means for changing the ratio between engine RPM (Revolutions Per Minute) and driving wheel RPM to best meet each particular driving situation.
Some types of drive train layouts use a "Transaxle", which is simply a combination of the transmission and the differential. These are usually found on front wheel drive cars, but are also used on mid- and rear-engine cars. Some exotic cars have their engine in the front, and a transaxle in the rear of the car for better weight balance.
Torque is derived from power. The amount of torque obtainable from a source of power is proportional to the distance from the center of rotation at which it is applied. It is logical, then, that if we have a shaft (in this case, the crankshaft) rotating at any given speed, we can put gears of different sizes on the shaft and obtain different results. If we put a large gear on the shaft, we will get more speed and less power at the rim than with a small gear. If we place another shaft parallel to our driving shaft and install gears on it in line with those on the driving shaft, we can obtain almost any desired combination of speed or power within the limits of the engine's ability. That is exactly what an automobile transmission does by means of gears and other devices.
There are two types of transmissions; manual and automatic. If you have a manual transmission, you have to shift the gears yourself, usually with a stick located on your console and the clutch pedal. If you have an automatic transmission, the mechanism changes without any help from you. This is accomplished through a system that works by oil pressure. Each shift of the gears is controlled by a shift valve; the gears shift change depending on speed, the road, and load conditions.
Another basic component of all drive trains is some form of a clutch. it allows the engine to continue rotating while the gears and wheels are stationary. Automatic transmission cars use a "torque converter" in lieu of a clutch.
The last component in the drive train is the axle. In a rear wheel drive car the axle is in the rear. Engine power is transmitted from the transmission to the axle via the drive shaft. The drive shaft is basically a metal tube with joints on each end called universal joints. These joints allow the tube to move in relation to the suspension and keep power flowing to the rear. In front wheel drive cars the axle is integrated into the transmission thus the term transaxle.
>From the back of the engine to where the rubber meets the road, the drive train encompasses one of the most complicated systems of your car. Some people say looking at a transmission "makes their brain hurt".
The above information is directly from the Auto Insight program, which you can buy online from AutoEducation.com.
Common Problems:
Manual transmissions suffer from wear mainly in the synchronizers. The synchronizers make shifting easier and help to prevent gear clash. Over time the synchronizers, which are made of brass, can wear out causing hard shifting and grinding.
Automatic transmissions can also wear out, causing slipping and uneven shifting patterns. Universal joints can wear and cause vibrations while driving. Many newer universal joints are sealed and cannot be lubricated, leaving replacement as the only option.
Preventive Maintenance:
Change the fluid in your transmission at recommended intervals. Your owners manual will give you a time schedule in miles and or months. If you tow a boat or trailer be prepared to change the fluid even sooner. Most owners manuals will give you recommend intervals for severe use like towing or off-road use.
Do not "ride" the clutch if you have a manual transmission. Learn to release the clutch in a smooth motion without revving the engine too much. Revving the engine too much while pulling out can cause premature wear on the clutch.
If you do tow a boat or trailer, consider getting a transmission cooler for your automatic transmission. Temperatures can approach the boiling point in severe conditions. Most newer trucks come equipped with transmission coolers if sold with a towing package.
Make sure your universal joint is lubricated at oil changes if they are the type, which can be lubricated. When replacing universal joints try to find replacements with lubrication fittings so you can lubricate in the future.
If you have a front wheel drive car, avoid applying the gas to the floor while the wheels are turned at full lock. This puts stress on the universals and can cause premature failure. This can happen when stuck in the snow and trying to get out.
What to discuss with your mechanic:
If you are noticing a vibration in the car while driving, make sure to describe when it happens. While accelerating? braking? maintaining speed? when turning?
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
by: Kevin Schappell
The drive train serves two functions: it transmits power from the engine to the drive wheels, and it varies the amount of torque. "Power" is the rate or speed at which work is performed. "Torque" is turning or twisting force. Multiple ratio gearboxes are necessary because the engine delivers its maximum power at certain speeds, or RPM (Rotations Per Minute).
In order to use the same engine RPM's at different road speeds, it is necessary to change the "Gear Ratio" between the engine and the drive wheels. Just like a bicycle, the car has to switch gears in order to move at a wide range of speeds. Unlike your bicycle, the car's drivetrain also has to allow you to back up. (Well, you could push it backwards if you ate your Wheaties)
There are actually two sets of gears in the drive train; the transmission and the differential. The transmission allows the gear ratio to be adjusted, and the differential lets the drive wheels turn at different speeds.
Manual transmissions usually have four or five speeds, and often have "overdrive", which means that the output shaft can turn faster than the input shaft for fuel economy on the highway. Some use an electric clutch and a switch that controls whether the overdrive is engaged or not. An interesting development on a few cars is the "clutchless" manual transmission, which uses a stick shift and an automatic electric clutch. Speed and position sensors, mini computers, and throttle controls keep the engine from over-revving when the driver shifts gears. As with many automotive "inventions", this is an old idea, which may now reach feasibility due to the computer revolution.
Automatic transmissions commonly use three forward gears to blend speed and torque. In the case of a three-speed transmission, first gear delivers maximum torque and minimum speed for starting. Second gear offers medium torque and speed for acceleration and hill climbing. Third gear allows maximum speed with minimum torque for highway travel. A reverse gear permits backward movement.
A transmission is a speed and power-changing device installed at some point between the engine and driving wheels of a vehicle. It provides a means for changing the ratio between engine RPM (Revolutions Per Minute) and driving wheel RPM to best meet each particular driving situation.
Some types of drive train layouts use a "Transaxle", which is simply a combination of the transmission and the differential. These are usually found on front wheel drive cars, but are also used on mid- and rear-engine cars. Some exotic cars have their engine in the front, and a transaxle in the rear of the car for better weight balance.
Torque is derived from power. The amount of torque obtainable from a source of power is proportional to the distance from the center of rotation at which it is applied. It is logical, then, that if we have a shaft (in this case, the crankshaft) rotating at any given speed, we can put gears of different sizes on the shaft and obtain different results. If we put a large gear on the shaft, we will get more speed and less power at the rim than with a small gear. If we place another shaft parallel to our driving shaft and install gears on it in line with those on the driving shaft, we can obtain almost any desired combination of speed or power within the limits of the engine's ability. That is exactly what an automobile transmission does by means of gears and other devices.
There are two types of transmissions; manual and automatic. If you have a manual transmission, you have to shift the gears yourself, usually with a stick located on your console and the clutch pedal. If you have an automatic transmission, the mechanism changes without any help from you. This is accomplished through a system that works by oil pressure. Each shift of the gears is controlled by a shift valve; the gears shift change depending on speed, the road, and load conditions.
Another basic component of all drive trains is some form of a clutch. it allows the engine to continue rotating while the gears and wheels are stationary. Automatic transmission cars use a "torque converter" in lieu of a clutch.
The last component in the drive train is the axle. In a rear wheel drive car the axle is in the rear. Engine power is transmitted from the transmission to the axle via the drive shaft. The drive shaft is basically a metal tube with joints on each end called universal joints. These joints allow the tube to move in relation to the suspension and keep power flowing to the rear. In front wheel drive cars the axle is integrated into the transmission thus the term transaxle.
>From the back of the engine to where the rubber meets the road, the drive train encompasses one of the most complicated systems of your car. Some people say looking at a transmission "makes their brain hurt".
The above information is directly from the Auto Insight program, which you can buy online from AutoEducation.com.
Common Problems:
Manual transmissions suffer from wear mainly in the synchronizers. The synchronizers make shifting easier and help to prevent gear clash. Over time the synchronizers, which are made of brass, can wear out causing hard shifting and grinding.
Automatic transmissions can also wear out, causing slipping and uneven shifting patterns. Universal joints can wear and cause vibrations while driving. Many newer universal joints are sealed and cannot be lubricated, leaving replacement as the only option.
Preventive Maintenance:
Change the fluid in your transmission at recommended intervals. Your owners manual will give you a time schedule in miles and or months. If you tow a boat or trailer be prepared to change the fluid even sooner. Most owners manuals will give you recommend intervals for severe use like towing or off-road use.
Do not "ride" the clutch if you have a manual transmission. Learn to release the clutch in a smooth motion without revving the engine too much. Revving the engine too much while pulling out can cause premature wear on the clutch.
If you do tow a boat or trailer, consider getting a transmission cooler for your automatic transmission. Temperatures can approach the boiling point in severe conditions. Most newer trucks come equipped with transmission coolers if sold with a towing package.
Make sure your universal joint is lubricated at oil changes if they are the type, which can be lubricated. When replacing universal joints try to find replacements with lubrication fittings so you can lubricate in the future.
If you have a front wheel drive car, avoid applying the gas to the floor while the wheels are turned at full lock. This puts stress on the universals and can cause premature failure. This can happen when stuck in the snow and trying to get out.
What to discuss with your mechanic:
If you are noticing a vibration in the car while driving, make sure to describe when it happens. While accelerating? braking? maintaining speed? when turning?
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
The Engine Explained
The Engine Explained
by: Kevin Schappell
The engine is the heart of your car, but instead of pumping blood, the engine pumps air and fuel. The engines main function is to convert air and fuel into rotary motion so it can drive the wheels of the car. How does it do that ??.... Well let's start with a cutaway of the engine and see all the major parts then we will get into the actual mechanics.
Pistons: Most common engines have 4, 6, or 8 pistons, which move up and down in the cylinders. On the upper side of the piston is what is called the combustion chamber where the fuel and air mix before ignited. On the other side is the crankcase, which is full of oil. Pistons have rings which serve to keep the oil out of the combustion chamber and the fuel and air out of the oil.
Crankshaft: The crankshaft is connected to the pistons via a connecting rod. As the piston moves up and down in the cylinder it rotates the crankshaft and converts the straight line motion into rotary motion.
Valve train: The valve train consists of valves, rocker arms, pushrods, lifters, and the camshaft. (shown in above picture in blue, yellow, and green) The valve train’s only job is that of a traffic cop. It lets air and fuel in and out of the engine at the proper time. The timing is controlled by the camshaft, which is synchronized to the crankshaft by a chain or belt.
Now that we have a general overview of the parts involved let's talk about what happens. Most automotive engine today are 4-stroke (or 4-cycle) engines, meaning they have four distinct events which make up the cycle.
Intake stroke: The camshaft opens the intake valve and the piston moves down the cylinder. This creates vacuum and sucks in air and fuel into the combustion chamber above the piston.
Compression stroke: As the piston starts moving back up the cylinder the intake valve closes and seals off the combustion chamber. The causes the air and fuel to compress.
Power stroke: As the fuel is compressed and the piston nears the top of the cylinder the spark plug fires and ignites the fuel and air. This explosion pushes the piston back down the cylinder and drives the crankshaft.
Exhaust stroke: After the piston reaches the bottom of the cylinder, the exhaust valve opens and the gasses left over from the fuel and air are sent out to the exhaust system.
Put these four events together in the above order and you have a complete cycle. Are you asleep yet? That's enough theory, let's talk about the real world and problems you might encounter with the above mentioned parts.
Pistons: Remember I talked about the rings, which seal the combustion chamber from the crankcase. The rings over time tend to wear out. When they wear they allow the fuel and air to enter into the oil and dilute it. This dilution reduces the oils ability to lubricate your engine and can cause premature wear. Also if the rings wear down they can allow oil from the crankcase to enter the combustion chambers. This will result in oil being burned and exiting your tailpipe as grayish/white smoke. If your car spews grayish white smoke and it does not go stop in the first few minutes after start-up you might have warn rings. If the smoke goes away after start-up look to the valve train section.
Crankshaft: The crankshaft rides on bearings, which can wear down over time. The bearings support the crankshaft and also the rods, which connect the pistons to the crankshaft. A loud medium pitched knocking noise in the engine points to warn bearings most of the time. This is usually a costly repair and involves removing the crankshaft and either machining the surface where the bearings ride, or replacing the entire crankshaft. To prevent this type of problem, use a high quality oil, change your oil at suggested intervals (3 months or 3000 miles is a safe number) and always maintain your oil level between oil changes.
Valve train: Remember the oil smoke problem mentioned above in the piston sections. If your car only smokes grayish/white smoke at start-up you may have leaking valve seals. Valve seals keep oil from above the valve from leaking into the combustion chamber. When they wear, they can allow oil to seep into the combustion chamber and collect there until your start the engine again. You generally do not get oil leaking past the valve seals while the engine is running since the seals expand with the heat of the engine and plug the leak.
Another common problem is the timing chain or belt will slip or even break causing the cam shaft to stop rotating. Remember the camshaft tells the valves when to open and if it stops spinning then the valves stop opening and closing. No valve moving, no engine running :-)
A term you will here when talking about timing chains and belts is "interference engine". When an engine is an "interference engine" the pistons and valves are so close together that if the valves were to stop moving (broken belt or chain) and the crankshaft kept spinning they would crash into the piston. (that's the interference) This crash tends to do bad things to an engine, breaking valve, bending pushrods, and even cracking pistons. This is why most manufacturers recommend changing the timing chain or belt every 60,000 miles. Timing belts dry out, stretch and deteriorate over time so even if you do not have 60,000 miles on the car think about changing the belt after it's 6 years old.
Preventive Maintenance:
Change your oil regularly.
Give your engine a chance to warm up before driving if possible. Let the oil get into all parts of the engine before driving. This is even more critical in cooler temperatures when the oil is cold and sluggish.
Change your timing belt or chain at your manufacturer's recommended interval.
void "snake oil" additives advertised on late night TV. Regular oil changes and good maintenance habits will keep your engine running it's best.
If you have a turbo charged engine, give the engine a minute or two cool down before turning it off. This cool down period allows oil to circulate and cool down the bearings. If you shut off the engine immediately after hard driving, the oil can gum up around the hot bearings and create problems down the road.
What to discuss with your mechanic:
If you have to replace your engine, discuss the benefits of buying used versus new. If you plan on keeping your car for some time, a new engine might be the best bet. Sometimes new engines are not much more expensive than rebuilt ones, and offer the best solution.
When trying to diagnose engine noises, be as descriptive as possible. Take note to when the noise occurs; at what throttle position, and when the noise started occurring. Sometimes changing the weight of oil being used can cause a new noise to crop up. Make sure you mechanic knows if you changed oil brands or weight recently.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
by: Kevin Schappell
The engine is the heart of your car, but instead of pumping blood, the engine pumps air and fuel. The engines main function is to convert air and fuel into rotary motion so it can drive the wheels of the car. How does it do that ??.... Well let's start with a cutaway of the engine and see all the major parts then we will get into the actual mechanics.
Pistons: Most common engines have 4, 6, or 8 pistons, which move up and down in the cylinders. On the upper side of the piston is what is called the combustion chamber where the fuel and air mix before ignited. On the other side is the crankcase, which is full of oil. Pistons have rings which serve to keep the oil out of the combustion chamber and the fuel and air out of the oil.
Crankshaft: The crankshaft is connected to the pistons via a connecting rod. As the piston moves up and down in the cylinder it rotates the crankshaft and converts the straight line motion into rotary motion.
Valve train: The valve train consists of valves, rocker arms, pushrods, lifters, and the camshaft. (shown in above picture in blue, yellow, and green) The valve train’s only job is that of a traffic cop. It lets air and fuel in and out of the engine at the proper time. The timing is controlled by the camshaft, which is synchronized to the crankshaft by a chain or belt.
Now that we have a general overview of the parts involved let's talk about what happens. Most automotive engine today are 4-stroke (or 4-cycle) engines, meaning they have four distinct events which make up the cycle.
Intake stroke: The camshaft opens the intake valve and the piston moves down the cylinder. This creates vacuum and sucks in air and fuel into the combustion chamber above the piston.
Compression stroke: As the piston starts moving back up the cylinder the intake valve closes and seals off the combustion chamber. The causes the air and fuel to compress.
Power stroke: As the fuel is compressed and the piston nears the top of the cylinder the spark plug fires and ignites the fuel and air. This explosion pushes the piston back down the cylinder and drives the crankshaft.
Exhaust stroke: After the piston reaches the bottom of the cylinder, the exhaust valve opens and the gasses left over from the fuel and air are sent out to the exhaust system.
Put these four events together in the above order and you have a complete cycle. Are you asleep yet? That's enough theory, let's talk about the real world and problems you might encounter with the above mentioned parts.
Pistons: Remember I talked about the rings, which seal the combustion chamber from the crankcase. The rings over time tend to wear out. When they wear they allow the fuel and air to enter into the oil and dilute it. This dilution reduces the oils ability to lubricate your engine and can cause premature wear. Also if the rings wear down they can allow oil from the crankcase to enter the combustion chambers. This will result in oil being burned and exiting your tailpipe as grayish/white smoke. If your car spews grayish white smoke and it does not go stop in the first few minutes after start-up you might have warn rings. If the smoke goes away after start-up look to the valve train section.
Crankshaft: The crankshaft rides on bearings, which can wear down over time. The bearings support the crankshaft and also the rods, which connect the pistons to the crankshaft. A loud medium pitched knocking noise in the engine points to warn bearings most of the time. This is usually a costly repair and involves removing the crankshaft and either machining the surface where the bearings ride, or replacing the entire crankshaft. To prevent this type of problem, use a high quality oil, change your oil at suggested intervals (3 months or 3000 miles is a safe number) and always maintain your oil level between oil changes.
Valve train: Remember the oil smoke problem mentioned above in the piston sections. If your car only smokes grayish/white smoke at start-up you may have leaking valve seals. Valve seals keep oil from above the valve from leaking into the combustion chamber. When they wear, they can allow oil to seep into the combustion chamber and collect there until your start the engine again. You generally do not get oil leaking past the valve seals while the engine is running since the seals expand with the heat of the engine and plug the leak.
Another common problem is the timing chain or belt will slip or even break causing the cam shaft to stop rotating. Remember the camshaft tells the valves when to open and if it stops spinning then the valves stop opening and closing. No valve moving, no engine running :-)
A term you will here when talking about timing chains and belts is "interference engine". When an engine is an "interference engine" the pistons and valves are so close together that if the valves were to stop moving (broken belt or chain) and the crankshaft kept spinning they would crash into the piston. (that's the interference) This crash tends to do bad things to an engine, breaking valve, bending pushrods, and even cracking pistons. This is why most manufacturers recommend changing the timing chain or belt every 60,000 miles. Timing belts dry out, stretch and deteriorate over time so even if you do not have 60,000 miles on the car think about changing the belt after it's 6 years old.
Preventive Maintenance:
Change your oil regularly.
Give your engine a chance to warm up before driving if possible. Let the oil get into all parts of the engine before driving. This is even more critical in cooler temperatures when the oil is cold and sluggish.
Change your timing belt or chain at your manufacturer's recommended interval.
void "snake oil" additives advertised on late night TV. Regular oil changes and good maintenance habits will keep your engine running it's best.
If you have a turbo charged engine, give the engine a minute or two cool down before turning it off. This cool down period allows oil to circulate and cool down the bearings. If you shut off the engine immediately after hard driving, the oil can gum up around the hot bearings and create problems down the road.
What to discuss with your mechanic:
If you have to replace your engine, discuss the benefits of buying used versus new. If you plan on keeping your car for some time, a new engine might be the best bet. Sometimes new engines are not much more expensive than rebuilt ones, and offer the best solution.
When trying to diagnose engine noises, be as descriptive as possible. Take note to when the noise occurs; at what throttle position, and when the noise started occurring. Sometimes changing the weight of oil being used can cause a new noise to crop up. Make sure you mechanic knows if you changed oil brands or weight recently.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
Consumers Urged To Use Greener Fuels As Smog Season Approaches
Consumers Urged To Use Greener Fuels As Smog Season Approaches
by: News Canada
(NC)-As the first smog alert warnings of the season approach, Canadians are being urged to use ethanol-blended fuel to alleviate the urban smog problems plaguing many parts of the country. Many regions have experienced a significant increase in the number of "smog days" in recent years and the problem is getting worse according the Canadian Renewable Fuels Association.
Mr. Bliss Baker, President of the Canadian Renewable Fuels Association (CRFA), suggests motorists fill-up with ethanol-blended gasoline. "All vehicles can use ethanol blends and this is one way of addressing the issue of air pollution," said Mr. Baker.
An ethanol blend of only 10% is a proven smog fighter reducing smog forming carbon monoxide by 30% compared to regular gasoline.
"This is no longer an urban problem," said Mr. Baker. Many rural parts of the country are now experiencing poor air quality particularly in the spring and summer months. The good news is there is something we can do about it," concluded Mr. Baker.
There are currently over 1,100 gas stations in Canada that sell ethanol-blended fuel across the country from Alberta to Quebec. To find a station near you simply visit the Canadian Renewable Fuels website at www.greenfuels.org.
About The Author
News Canada provides a wide selection of current, ready-to-use copyright free news stories and ideas for Television, Print, Radio, and the Web.
News Canada is a niche service in public relations, offering access to print, radio, television, and now the Internet media, with ready-to-use, editorial "fill" items. Monitoring and analysis are two more of our primary services. The service supplies access to the national media for marketers in the private, the public, and the not-for-profit sectors. Your corporate and product news, consumer tips and information are packaged in a variety of ready-to-use formats and are made available to every Canadian media organization including weekly and daily newspapers, cable and commercial television stations, radio stations, as well as the Web sites Canadians visit most often. Visit News Canada and learn more about the NC services.
This article was posted on July 23, 2002
by: News Canada
(NC)-As the first smog alert warnings of the season approach, Canadians are being urged to use ethanol-blended fuel to alleviate the urban smog problems plaguing many parts of the country. Many regions have experienced a significant increase in the number of "smog days" in recent years and the problem is getting worse according the Canadian Renewable Fuels Association.
Mr. Bliss Baker, President of the Canadian Renewable Fuels Association (CRFA), suggests motorists fill-up with ethanol-blended gasoline. "All vehicles can use ethanol blends and this is one way of addressing the issue of air pollution," said Mr. Baker.
An ethanol blend of only 10% is a proven smog fighter reducing smog forming carbon monoxide by 30% compared to regular gasoline.
"This is no longer an urban problem," said Mr. Baker. Many rural parts of the country are now experiencing poor air quality particularly in the spring and summer months. The good news is there is something we can do about it," concluded Mr. Baker.
There are currently over 1,100 gas stations in Canada that sell ethanol-blended fuel across the country from Alberta to Quebec. To find a station near you simply visit the Canadian Renewable Fuels website at www.greenfuels.org.
About The Author
News Canada provides a wide selection of current, ready-to-use copyright free news stories and ideas for Television, Print, Radio, and the Web.
News Canada is a niche service in public relations, offering access to print, radio, television, and now the Internet media, with ready-to-use, editorial "fill" items. Monitoring and analysis are two more of our primary services. The service supplies access to the national media for marketers in the private, the public, and the not-for-profit sectors. Your corporate and product news, consumer tips and information are packaged in a variety of ready-to-use formats and are made available to every Canadian media organization including weekly and daily newspapers, cable and commercial television stations, radio stations, as well as the Web sites Canadians visit most often. Visit News Canada and learn more about the NC services.
This article was posted on July 23, 2002
Auto HVAC
Auto HVAC
by: Kevin Schappell
Not only do we depend on our cars to get us where we want to go, we also depend on them to get us there without discomfort. We expect the heater to keep us warm when it's cold outside, and the air conditioning system to keep us cool when it's hot.
We get heat from the heater core, sort of a secondary radiator, which is part of the car's cooling system. We get air conditioning from the car's elaborate air conditioning system.
Despite its relatively small size, the cooling system has to deal with an enormous amount of heat to protect the engine from friction and the heat of combustion. The cooling system has to remove about 6,000 BTU of heat per minute. This is a lot more heat than we need to heat a large home in cold weather. It's good to know that some of this heat can be put to the useful purpose of keeping us warm.
Air conditioning makes driving much more comfortable in hot weather. Your car's air conditioner cleans and dehumidifies (removes excess moisture), the outside air entering your car. It also has the task of keeping the air at the temperature you select. These are all big jobs. How do our cars keep our "riding environment" the way we like it?
Most people think the air conditioning system's job is to add "cold" air to the interior of the car. Actually, there is no such thing as "cold," just an absence of heat, or less heat than our bodies are comfortable with. The job of the air conditioning system is really to “remove” the heat that makes us uncomfortable, and returns the air to the car's interior in a "un-heated" condition. Air conditioning, or cooling, is really a process of removing heat from an object (like air).
A compressor circulates a liquid refrigerant called Refrigerant-12 (we tend to call it "Freon," a trade name, the way we call copy machines "Xerox" machines). The compressor moves the Refrigerant-12 from an evaporator, through a condenser and expansion valve, right back to the evaporator. The evaporator is right in front of a fan that pulls the hot, humid air out of the car's interior. The refrigerant makes the hot air's moisture condense into drops of water, removing the heat from the air. Once the water is removed, the "cool" air is sent back into the car's interior. Aaaaaah! Much better. Newer cars have R-134 as the refrigerant, but work in the same way as R-12.
Sometimes we worry when we catch our car making a water puddle on the ground, but are relieved to discover that it's only water dripping from the air conditioning system's condenser (no color, no smell, and it dries!).
Note: Refrigerant is extremely dangerous. Many special precautions must be taken when it is present. It can freeze whatever it contacts (including your eyes), it is heavier than air and can suffocate you, and it produces a poisonous gas when it comes in contact with an open flame.
The above information is directly from the Auto Insight program, which you can buy online from AutoEducation.com.
Common Problems:
From time to time the A/C system needs to be recharged to bring it back up to maximum efficiency. Sometimes a leak may cause loss of refrigerant and will need to be fixed before refilling. It's difficult to tell if a leak is present without specific test equipment so let it up to a professional.
Corrosion will cause the heater core (secondary radiator) to leak. This will manifest itself by leaving steam into the passenger compartment and fogging your windows. You will know there is a leak by the sweet smell coming from your vents. Unfortunately changing the heater core is usually not the easier job in the world, as engineers tend to squeeze them into some pretty tight spaces under the dash.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
by: Kevin Schappell
Not only do we depend on our cars to get us where we want to go, we also depend on them to get us there without discomfort. We expect the heater to keep us warm when it's cold outside, and the air conditioning system to keep us cool when it's hot.
We get heat from the heater core, sort of a secondary radiator, which is part of the car's cooling system. We get air conditioning from the car's elaborate air conditioning system.
Despite its relatively small size, the cooling system has to deal with an enormous amount of heat to protect the engine from friction and the heat of combustion. The cooling system has to remove about 6,000 BTU of heat per minute. This is a lot more heat than we need to heat a large home in cold weather. It's good to know that some of this heat can be put to the useful purpose of keeping us warm.
Air conditioning makes driving much more comfortable in hot weather. Your car's air conditioner cleans and dehumidifies (removes excess moisture), the outside air entering your car. It also has the task of keeping the air at the temperature you select. These are all big jobs. How do our cars keep our "riding environment" the way we like it?
Most people think the air conditioning system's job is to add "cold" air to the interior of the car. Actually, there is no such thing as "cold," just an absence of heat, or less heat than our bodies are comfortable with. The job of the air conditioning system is really to “remove” the heat that makes us uncomfortable, and returns the air to the car's interior in a "un-heated" condition. Air conditioning, or cooling, is really a process of removing heat from an object (like air).
A compressor circulates a liquid refrigerant called Refrigerant-12 (we tend to call it "Freon," a trade name, the way we call copy machines "Xerox" machines). The compressor moves the Refrigerant-12 from an evaporator, through a condenser and expansion valve, right back to the evaporator. The evaporator is right in front of a fan that pulls the hot, humid air out of the car's interior. The refrigerant makes the hot air's moisture condense into drops of water, removing the heat from the air. Once the water is removed, the "cool" air is sent back into the car's interior. Aaaaaah! Much better. Newer cars have R-134 as the refrigerant, but work in the same way as R-12.
Sometimes we worry when we catch our car making a water puddle on the ground, but are relieved to discover that it's only water dripping from the air conditioning system's condenser (no color, no smell, and it dries!).
Note: Refrigerant is extremely dangerous. Many special precautions must be taken when it is present. It can freeze whatever it contacts (including your eyes), it is heavier than air and can suffocate you, and it produces a poisonous gas when it comes in contact with an open flame.
The above information is directly from the Auto Insight program, which you can buy online from AutoEducation.com.
Common Problems:
From time to time the A/C system needs to be recharged to bring it back up to maximum efficiency. Sometimes a leak may cause loss of refrigerant and will need to be fixed before refilling. It's difficult to tell if a leak is present without specific test equipment so let it up to a professional.
Corrosion will cause the heater core (secondary radiator) to leak. This will manifest itself by leaving steam into the passenger compartment and fogging your windows. You will know there is a leak by the sweet smell coming from your vents. Unfortunately changing the heater core is usually not the easier job in the world, as engineers tend to squeeze them into some pretty tight spaces under the dash.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
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