Used Car Auctions: Do's and Dont's
by: Thomas H. Miller
This is Part 1 of a 4 part series on how to buy a car at an auction
So you are looking for a car or truck, but you're tired of running around town and finding other people selling their "headaches" through the local classifieds, or dealers offering "cream-puffs" for inflated retail prices. All you want is a good vehicle for a good price. Period. Does such a deal exist? Yes, indeed! Repossession auctions are becoming more and more popular across the country. I have been attending them for over 20 years, and have purchased many cars and trucks at bargain prices - everything from a brand new car (still with the window sticker on it and 3 miles on the odometer) for $1,100 below the sticker price, to a conversion van with 99,000 miles on it. Both of these vehicles are still in the family and running strong.
1. What I'd like to do here is share my experiences with you, and give you some tips on how you, too, can find these bargains.
First of all, how do you find the auctions? Your local paper is a good place to start. Many banks and other financial institutions (such as GMAC) list the times and places of their auctions in Sunday papers under "Auctions" or "Cars for Sale". Also, if there is a "legal publication" in your area, that publishes court proceedings, bankruptcy notices, etc., this is another source for repossession auto auction notifications. One other way to find them is to call your local banks and ask for the Installment Loan Department. They should be able to provide you with details on their particular auctions. Many even have regular mailing lists, where they will automatically send you a notification of their auction and even a listing of what vehicles will be included. While some institutions restrict their auctions to dealers only, most will allow the public to attend and bid. Once you have found an auction, be sure to get all the details BEFORE you go. You'll need to know if there are any minimum bid requirements, what type of payment they need, and what type of paperwork they provide to the purchasers. Many auctions will sell everything to the highest bidder, no matter how low the bid is. Still others may have a minimum bid they must get, or they "buy back" the car and save it for the next auction. Most institutions retain the right to bid, so be aware that you may be not only be bidding against other people interested in the vehicle, but also against the auctioneer!
While most auctions will publish their requirements for payment along with the auction notification, DON'T assume that that's all there is to it. Find out if they expect cash only, certified checks or personal checks. Also, many require full payment immediately after the sale, while others may require a non-refundable deposit with the balance due in a few days. All too often I have seen people make costly errors at auctions because they didn't understand these payment rules.
In this day and age of red tape, titles, liens, etc., the paperwork an institution provides is as important as anything else. In New York State, for example, if the institution sells the vehicle with "as-is" marked on the bill of sale, you may encounter a legal nightmare that involves a major full-vehicle inspection and an 8 to 10 week wait for a title search and registration procedure that will prevent you from putting the vehicle on the road for months. It is imperative, therefore, that you find out specifically what paperwork the institution will give you when you purchase a vehicle through their auction. If you plan on registering the car right away, tell them that and make sure you are satisfied that they will give you what you need. If in doubt, contact your local Motor Vehicle office ahead of time to insure that you'll be able to proceed with what the institution will be giving you. Laws vary dramatically from state to state. Above all, make sure that all liens have been satisfied before you purchase a repossessed vehicle. Most banks and financial institutions will give you some type of form to verify this.
OK... now you've found the auction and understand the rules and requirements. The next step is finding the vehicle that fits your needs. In order to know what the vehicle's value is before you bid on it, you'll need a good resource of wholesale and retail pricing. One good source is the NADA "Blue Book". This book lists cars and light trucks by manufacturer and body style, giving you the current average wholesale and retail for each. I have used a book called "Edmund's Used Car Prices" for the past 15 years or so, and found them to be a very reliable source. Like the NADA book, it lists the cars and light trucks by manufacturer and year (usually the past 7 model years), and provides the vehicle's original list price, current average wholesale and retail. It also provides you with a list of popular options, and what they add to the value of the car or truck. There's plenty of details in the book which I won't go into here. Just make sure you read the "How to Use This Book" section thoroughly before you start using it. Options such as air conditioning, power steering and brakes and type of transmission may dramatically affect the value of the vehicle. Also, excessive mileage for that particular year car or truck will affect the value. So, read the book and know how to use it BEFORE you get to the auction.
Visit my site at www.helpmebuyacar.bravehost.com
About The Author
My name is Thomas Miller, I'm student here in Detroit, MI. I love to do research, I love to write and most of all I cars.
thomasmiller2005@aol.com
This article was posted on December 30, 2004
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duminică, 25 decembrie 2011
The Great Value Of Accident Photographs
The Great Value Of Accident Photographs
by: Dan Baldyga
You were humming along on a bright and sunny day when suddenly Fred Fuddle, a local character from a nearby town, drunk as a skunk and zooming along in his pickup, flew through stop sign crashing into the right front of your motor vehicle. You had no choice to avoid him. Now the time has come to settle your claim for property damage and personal injuries. Let’s talk about photographs one of the basics that should have been taking place - - just as soon as possible - - after that impact had taken place.
PHOTOGRAPHS OF INJURIES: Photographs are often the best evidence you can produce to increase the value of your claim. If your accident causes bodily injuries that are visible (such as bruises, deep cuts, swellings, lacerations, dislocations and/or black and blue marks) it’s crucial, to the ultimate settlement value of your case, that you have photographs taken of those just as soon as possible! Take them from 3 feet away and also as close as you can so as to capture the seriousness of heir existence. When you hand those to Adjuster I. M. Smart from the Granite Insurance Company believe me when I tell you he’ll stare at them and blanch!
Question: "How does Dan know this to be so"?
Answer: "Because for 38 years Dan was there and felt that"!
PHOTOGRAPHS OF BOTH VEHICLES: You should take photographs of the damages to your vehicle from several different angles. If at all possible find the motor vehicle that hit you and take photographs of that damage also. When it comes to proving the impact your body was subjected to (and in many cases to prove who was at fault) those photographs could one day be worth their weight in gold.
HOW TO TAKE PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE ACCIDENT SCENE: The pictures of each accident scene should be taken from at least three different angles: Snap several of a “general view” of the area from about 20 to 40 feet away; a couple more “medium range” shot’s from 10 to 15 feet away, and then some “close up” shot’s from 3 to 5 feet away. If it’s at all possible all three different distances should have a common point or orientation. If, for example, you’re snapping photographs of a skid mark, it should be taken from an angle so as to clearly show were that skid mark is, in relation to a landmark, like a street sign, a building, a fire hydrant, etc. Another photograph should then be taken with a closer view - - one clearly identifying the skid mark in detail - -and also, if possible, include this readily identifiable object or landmark (the street signs, building‘s, etc.).
Because they’re such potent evidence you should blow up those photographs of the skid marks, taken from 3 to 6 feet away, into 8X10 glossies. A total of 12 to 15 photographs of the accident scene and/or the skid marks are not too many. When you hand copies of the 8X10 glossy photograph’s of those skid marks to the adjuster, to help justify he payment he’ll eventually make to you, it will absolutely increase the value of your claim.
"Why" you ask?
The answer to that one is, "Because it will tell both adjuster Smart and his supervisor (who, in the end, will usually call the shots on how much your settlement dollars should be) that you know what you’re doing and you’re not the type of individual who can be taken advantage of".
A WORD OF CAUTION: The individual engaged in the task of snapping photograph’s of your body, the accident scene, etc., should be careful to make sure they’re not undertaking this effort with a casual, hasty or careless attitude - - one that tends to leave it up to do the camera to do the thinking for them. Rather, the photographer ought to carefully consider the process the process slowly and seriously so that the photos produced will produce the maximum value.
If at all possible photos should be taken of the exact location on the road where the impact occurred, and shots of all relevant gouge and/or chop marks on the surface, plus traffic signs, etc., as applicable.
It cannot be emphasized enough that photographs of skid marks are invaluable evidence, since they can often indicate Fuddle’s speed at the time of impact and can be a tremendous asset when it comes to establishing fault.
A good practice to follow is to make a brief notation on the backs of all photos, entering upon them a brief account of what the photo is showing, the date it was taken and by whom.
Photographs of injuries, the accident scene and the road surface if done correctly - - is money in the bank !
Copyright (c)2004 By Daniel G. Baldyga
DISCLAIMER: The only purpose of this article "THE GREAT VALUE OF ACCIDENT PHOTOGRAPHS" is to help people understand the motor vehicle accident claim process. Neither Dan Baldyga, Peter Go nor ARTICLECITY.COM make any guarantee of any kind whatsoever: NOR do they purport to engage in rendering any professional or legal service, NOR to substitute for a lawyer, an insurance adjuster, or claims consultant, or the like. Where such professional help is desired it is the INDIVIDUAL’S RESPONSIBILITY to obtain said services.
All of the information necessary for you to deal with and handle the above issues are spelled out wiithin the contents of Dan Baldyga's third "How To" Insurance Claim book AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM (How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss)found on the internet at http://www.caraccidentclams.com or http://www.autoaccodentclaims.com. This book also contains BASE (The Baldyga Auto Accident Settlement Evaluation Formula). THE BASE FORMULA will tell you exactly how many dollars the "Pain and Suffering" you endured, because of your accident - - are worth!
Copyright (c) 2002 By Dan Baldyga. All Rights Reserved
About The Author
Dan Baldyga is now retired and spends his time writing articles to assist those who are involved in motor vehicle accident claims so they won't be taken advantage of: dbpaw@comcast.net.
This article was posted on December 11, 2004
by: Dan Baldyga
You were humming along on a bright and sunny day when suddenly Fred Fuddle, a local character from a nearby town, drunk as a skunk and zooming along in his pickup, flew through stop sign crashing into the right front of your motor vehicle. You had no choice to avoid him. Now the time has come to settle your claim for property damage and personal injuries. Let’s talk about photographs one of the basics that should have been taking place - - just as soon as possible - - after that impact had taken place.
PHOTOGRAPHS OF INJURIES: Photographs are often the best evidence you can produce to increase the value of your claim. If your accident causes bodily injuries that are visible (such as bruises, deep cuts, swellings, lacerations, dislocations and/or black and blue marks) it’s crucial, to the ultimate settlement value of your case, that you have photographs taken of those just as soon as possible! Take them from 3 feet away and also as close as you can so as to capture the seriousness of heir existence. When you hand those to Adjuster I. M. Smart from the Granite Insurance Company believe me when I tell you he’ll stare at them and blanch!
Question: "How does Dan know this to be so"?
Answer: "Because for 38 years Dan was there and felt that"!
PHOTOGRAPHS OF BOTH VEHICLES: You should take photographs of the damages to your vehicle from several different angles. If at all possible find the motor vehicle that hit you and take photographs of that damage also. When it comes to proving the impact your body was subjected to (and in many cases to prove who was at fault) those photographs could one day be worth their weight in gold.
HOW TO TAKE PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE ACCIDENT SCENE: The pictures of each accident scene should be taken from at least three different angles: Snap several of a “general view” of the area from about 20 to 40 feet away; a couple more “medium range” shot’s from 10 to 15 feet away, and then some “close up” shot’s from 3 to 5 feet away. If it’s at all possible all three different distances should have a common point or orientation. If, for example, you’re snapping photographs of a skid mark, it should be taken from an angle so as to clearly show were that skid mark is, in relation to a landmark, like a street sign, a building, a fire hydrant, etc. Another photograph should then be taken with a closer view - - one clearly identifying the skid mark in detail - -and also, if possible, include this readily identifiable object or landmark (the street signs, building‘s, etc.).
Because they’re such potent evidence you should blow up those photographs of the skid marks, taken from 3 to 6 feet away, into 8X10 glossies. A total of 12 to 15 photographs of the accident scene and/or the skid marks are not too many. When you hand copies of the 8X10 glossy photograph’s of those skid marks to the adjuster, to help justify he payment he’ll eventually make to you, it will absolutely increase the value of your claim.
"Why" you ask?
The answer to that one is, "Because it will tell both adjuster Smart and his supervisor (who, in the end, will usually call the shots on how much your settlement dollars should be) that you know what you’re doing and you’re not the type of individual who can be taken advantage of".
A WORD OF CAUTION: The individual engaged in the task of snapping photograph’s of your body, the accident scene, etc., should be careful to make sure they’re not undertaking this effort with a casual, hasty or careless attitude - - one that tends to leave it up to do the camera to do the thinking for them. Rather, the photographer ought to carefully consider the process the process slowly and seriously so that the photos produced will produce the maximum value.
If at all possible photos should be taken of the exact location on the road where the impact occurred, and shots of all relevant gouge and/or chop marks on the surface, plus traffic signs, etc., as applicable.
It cannot be emphasized enough that photographs of skid marks are invaluable evidence, since they can often indicate Fuddle’s speed at the time of impact and can be a tremendous asset when it comes to establishing fault.
A good practice to follow is to make a brief notation on the backs of all photos, entering upon them a brief account of what the photo is showing, the date it was taken and by whom.
Photographs of injuries, the accident scene and the road surface if done correctly - - is money in the bank !
Copyright (c)2004 By Daniel G. Baldyga
DISCLAIMER: The only purpose of this article "THE GREAT VALUE OF ACCIDENT PHOTOGRAPHS" is to help people understand the motor vehicle accident claim process. Neither Dan Baldyga, Peter Go nor ARTICLECITY.COM make any guarantee of any kind whatsoever: NOR do they purport to engage in rendering any professional or legal service, NOR to substitute for a lawyer, an insurance adjuster, or claims consultant, or the like. Where such professional help is desired it is the INDIVIDUAL’S RESPONSIBILITY to obtain said services.
All of the information necessary for you to deal with and handle the above issues are spelled out wiithin the contents of Dan Baldyga's third "How To" Insurance Claim book AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM (How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss)found on the internet at http://www.caraccidentclams.com or http://www.autoaccodentclaims.com. This book also contains BASE (The Baldyga Auto Accident Settlement Evaluation Formula). THE BASE FORMULA will tell you exactly how many dollars the "Pain and Suffering" you endured, because of your accident - - are worth!
Copyright (c) 2002 By Dan Baldyga. All Rights Reserved
About The Author
Dan Baldyga is now retired and spends his time writing articles to assist those who are involved in motor vehicle accident claims so they won't be taken advantage of: dbpaw@comcast.net.
This article was posted on December 11, 2004
How to buy a used Car at 90% savings off the book value
How to buy a used Car at 90% savings off the book value
by: Steve Li
To buy a used car is a great idea for saving money. Everyone knows that a new car lost 65% of its value in the first 5 years. But the case would be more extreme for a 1 to 2 years old car, it will lost its value 30-40%.
If you don’t mind to drive a used car (I mean a 2 to 5 years old car, it looks pretty new) rather than a new car, you may save much money to pay many other bills. If you want to keep the car not too old, you may resell it after driving for 2 to 3 years and buy another newer one. The value of the car will only drop 15% or less for a 5 years old car. Therefore, your driving cost for 2-3 years would only be 10-15% of the car’s original value.
The price quote above was only the price you buy from an ordinary car dealer. However, you can buy it much cheaper through some special channel.
Have you ever heard that around the country, hundreds of thousands of vehicles get repossessed by various institutions ranging from banks to US Customs, and everyone of those cars is going to be sold at an auction, online or traditional. Usually, before, only car dealers with a special license could benefit from these incredible savings, however, with a membership at some special organization, you can join the ranks of the lucky ones and find bargains that you could only dream of. Almost nothing will be out of your range as a member of this site - you will be able to get a car you always wanted but could not afford to spend so much money on.
By the way, many people may ask why wouldn't everyone buy a car this way, instead of the usual going to the dealer or classified ads routine? The secret is : because this is a very protected source of revenue for the majority of car dealerships and is not advertised to the general public. But, if you are a member you can have access rights to the direct source and buy your vehicle with up to 90% savings off the book value price.
In conclusion, buy a used car through a special organization can help you save up to 90% off the book value. You can keep the car pretty new according to the strategy I suggested. So enjoy a pretty new car with an affordable price.
About The Author
Steve Li is the webmaster of http://cheapcarfinder.yourbestchoices.com.
By subscribing to his twice-weekly ezine get a FREE REPORT “Driving To Savings: Car Tips To Save You Money”, send a blank email to: mailto:carfinder@yourbestchoices.com.
stevelkw@hotmail.com
This article was posted on December 09, 2004
by: Steve Li
To buy a used car is a great idea for saving money. Everyone knows that a new car lost 65% of its value in the first 5 years. But the case would be more extreme for a 1 to 2 years old car, it will lost its value 30-40%.
If you don’t mind to drive a used car (I mean a 2 to 5 years old car, it looks pretty new) rather than a new car, you may save much money to pay many other bills. If you want to keep the car not too old, you may resell it after driving for 2 to 3 years and buy another newer one. The value of the car will only drop 15% or less for a 5 years old car. Therefore, your driving cost for 2-3 years would only be 10-15% of the car’s original value.
The price quote above was only the price you buy from an ordinary car dealer. However, you can buy it much cheaper through some special channel.
Have you ever heard that around the country, hundreds of thousands of vehicles get repossessed by various institutions ranging from banks to US Customs, and everyone of those cars is going to be sold at an auction, online or traditional. Usually, before, only car dealers with a special license could benefit from these incredible savings, however, with a membership at some special organization, you can join the ranks of the lucky ones and find bargains that you could only dream of. Almost nothing will be out of your range as a member of this site - you will be able to get a car you always wanted but could not afford to spend so much money on.
By the way, many people may ask why wouldn't everyone buy a car this way, instead of the usual going to the dealer or classified ads routine? The secret is : because this is a very protected source of revenue for the majority of car dealerships and is not advertised to the general public. But, if you are a member you can have access rights to the direct source and buy your vehicle with up to 90% savings off the book value price.
In conclusion, buy a used car through a special organization can help you save up to 90% off the book value. You can keep the car pretty new according to the strategy I suggested. So enjoy a pretty new car with an affordable price.
About The Author
Steve Li is the webmaster of http://cheapcarfinder.yourbestchoices.com.
By subscribing to his twice-weekly ezine get a FREE REPORT “Driving To Savings: Car Tips To Save You Money”, send a blank email to: mailto:carfinder@yourbestchoices.com.
stevelkw@hotmail.com
This article was posted on December 09, 2004
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