Changing a Tire
by: Kevin Schappell
It always happens at the worst times! You need to know how to change a tire even if you have an auto club membership. Depending on where you get a flat, there may not be a phone nearby to call a tow truck. Let's take is step by step and always remember to read your owners manual, there will be detailed instructions relating to your car there. I should mention also a few tips for getting to the side of the road safely if you have a blowout on the road.
Stay calm, do not panic
Slowly take your foot off of the gas and let the vehicle coast to a stop.
Do not make any sudden braking or steering actions.
Put your flashers on to alert other drivers.
Now that you are safely off of the road.
Step 1: Make sure you are on firm level ground and away from traffic. If you are not, then try to drive to a better spot, but only if you can do it safely. Avoid going back onto the road and into traffic.
Step 2: Set your emergency brake and put the car in Park or 1st gear if you have a manual transmission. Make sure the engine is turned off.
Step 3: Locate the spare tire, jack, and lug wrench. These are usually located in the trunk underneath the carpet on cars. Trucks usually have the jack and lug wrench behind the seat or under the hood, with the spare tire under the bed.
Step 4: Typically there are instructions printed on the jack or somewhere near the storage compartment. Read these instructions, they will tell you where to jack the vehicle and any special steps you will need to take.
Step 5: First remove the hubcap or wheel cover. The lug wrench often has a flat end, which you can use to pry off the cover. If not, a screwdriver will work just fine.
Step 6: Before you jack the car up you will want to break loose the lug nuts. The weight of the car will keep the wheel from spinning and allow you to apply more force to the nuts. You do not want to completely remove the lug nuts yet.... just break them loose. Once the lug nut begins to move, STOP and move onto the next one. I often carry a small pipe, which will fit over the lug wrench. This pipe can provide additional leverage and allow you to get those stubborn lug nuts off. Always remember righty tighty, lefty loosy. Turn the lug nuts left or counter clockwise to loosen.
Step 7: Now it's time to jack up the car. Make sure you know where the manufacturer has placed jacking points by reading the owners manual or the instructions near or on the jack. Most cars will have a reinforced lip where the jack can be placed. If you can not locate this, look for a solid portion of the frame to jack on. Make sure the jack is on firm level ground and start jacking. Take it slowly and only go as far as you need to get the wheel off.
Step 8: The wheel is off the ground and it's time to remove the lug nuts. Use the wrench or your fingers to remove the nuts. Slowly take the wheel off and set it to the side.
Step 9: Get the new wheel and put it on the car. Tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can without the wheel spinning. Don't worry about getting the nuts super tight, as you will do the final tightening when the car is off of the jack.
Step 10: Let the car down off of the jack and get your lug wrench. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern if there are five nuts. Start with one lug nut and skip the next one until they are all tight. If you have 4 nuts, just tighten the opposite nut from where you started and then the remaining two in any order.
Step 11: Replace your wheel cover or hubcap and clean up the jack, lug wrench and blown tire. If your spare tire had air in it, you should be able to continue your journey.
Finally: Remember if you have a temporary spare tire (AKA doughnut) you can only drive a few miles to a service station and usually not over 50 MPH.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
Se afișează postările cu eticheta where. Afișați toate postările
Se afișează postările cu eticheta where. Afișați toate postările
duminică, 25 decembrie 2011
Your Fuel System
Your Fuel System
by: Kevin Schappell
The fuel system feed your engine the gasoline/diesel it needs to run. If anyone of the parts in the system break down your engine will not run. Let's look at the major parts of the fuel system,
Fuel tank: Basically a holding tank for your fuel. When you fill up at a gas station the gas travels down the filler tube and into the tank. In the tank there is a sending unit, which tells the gas gauge how much gas is in the tank.
Fuel pump: On newer cars the fuel pump is usually installed in the fuel tank. Older cars have the fuel pump attached to the engine or on the frame rail between the tank and the engine. If the pump is in the tank or on the frame rail then it is electric and is run by your cars battery. Fuel pumps mounted to the engine use the motion of the engine to pump the fuel
Fuel filter: Clean fuel is critical to engine life and performance. Fuel injectors have tiny openings, which clog easily so filtering the fuel is the only way to prevent this. Filters can be before or after the fuel pump, sometimes both.
Fuel injectors: Most domestic cars after 1986 and earlier foreign cars came from the factory with fuel injection. Instead of a carburetor to mix the fuel and air, a computer controls when the fuel injectors open to let fuel into the engine. This has resulted in lower emissions and better fuel economy. The fuel injector is basically a tiny electric valve, which opens and closes with an electric signal. In the picture below you can see the injectors towards the outer part of the intake. By injecting the fuel close to the cylinder head the fuel stays atomized ( in tiny particles ) so it will burn better when ignited by the spark plug.
Carburetors: A carburetor takes the fuel and mixes it with air without computer intervention. While simple in operation, they tend to need frequent tuning and rebuilding. This is why most newer cars have done away with carburetors in favor of fuel injection.
Common Problems:
I would say the most common problem is a clogged fuel filter. Make sure you follow your manufacturers recommendations as to when you should change the fuel filter. This information should be in your owner’s manual. Symptoms include sputtering at high speeds or engine not starting at all. Always check the ignition system first, if that's ok then the next suspect is the fuel filter.
Next most common problem is the fuel pump failing. Most modern electric fuel pumps can be heard when you turn the key on. If you don't hear the pump running and your car will not start, it could be your fuel pump. The first thing a mechanic will check is the relay, which sends power to the pump. If this is operating correctly then the pump will have to be replaced.
Last but not least are dirty injectors. While the fuel filter does a good job of filtering the fuel, it's not perfect. Over time deposits and tiny particles lodge themselves in the injectors. This can clog and injector and prevent it from delivering the fuel the engine needs. It can also cause an injector to stick open and send too much fuel into the engine. A regular addition of fuel system cleaner like STP Injector Cleaner, or Techtron fuel system cleaner can help keep your injectors clean. Most gas stations, department stores and all automotive parts stores will have a good cleaner available. Add it to your empty tank right before you fill up and it will clean as you drive. I recommend doing this every 3 months to keep your injectors performing like new. Mechanics also offer a cleaning service where they actually disconnect the fuel line and flush cleaner through the engine. This is only necessary when you let your injectors get to a point where they can not be cleaned by a store-bought product. Regular use of a good in-tank cleaner will keep you from having to pay for this service.
Where do you buy your gas?
Believe it, or not, it can make a difference. Always buy from a well know national brand service station. Gas stations, which are not affiliated with one brand of gas, tend to get whatever is left at the end of the day from the delivery truck. One day them might get Texaco, and Exxon another. Also water mixed with gas will cause problems with your engine. The engine will not run right, plus the water will promote rust in the fuel system. I have experienced this when I purchased gas at some no-name gas stations. Your car will feel sluggish and sometimes refuse to run if there is enough water in the gas.
Octane rating tip!!!!
Putting super in the tank will not get you any more performance or gas mileage unless specifically recommended by your cars manufacturer. If your owners manual says put in 87 octane...... DO IT. You are throwing money out the window if you are filling up on Super or Premium and you only need Regular.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
by: Kevin Schappell
The fuel system feed your engine the gasoline/diesel it needs to run. If anyone of the parts in the system break down your engine will not run. Let's look at the major parts of the fuel system,
Fuel tank: Basically a holding tank for your fuel. When you fill up at a gas station the gas travels down the filler tube and into the tank. In the tank there is a sending unit, which tells the gas gauge how much gas is in the tank.
Fuel pump: On newer cars the fuel pump is usually installed in the fuel tank. Older cars have the fuel pump attached to the engine or on the frame rail between the tank and the engine. If the pump is in the tank or on the frame rail then it is electric and is run by your cars battery. Fuel pumps mounted to the engine use the motion of the engine to pump the fuel
Fuel filter: Clean fuel is critical to engine life and performance. Fuel injectors have tiny openings, which clog easily so filtering the fuel is the only way to prevent this. Filters can be before or after the fuel pump, sometimes both.
Fuel injectors: Most domestic cars after 1986 and earlier foreign cars came from the factory with fuel injection. Instead of a carburetor to mix the fuel and air, a computer controls when the fuel injectors open to let fuel into the engine. This has resulted in lower emissions and better fuel economy. The fuel injector is basically a tiny electric valve, which opens and closes with an electric signal. In the picture below you can see the injectors towards the outer part of the intake. By injecting the fuel close to the cylinder head the fuel stays atomized ( in tiny particles ) so it will burn better when ignited by the spark plug.
Carburetors: A carburetor takes the fuel and mixes it with air without computer intervention. While simple in operation, they tend to need frequent tuning and rebuilding. This is why most newer cars have done away with carburetors in favor of fuel injection.
Common Problems:
I would say the most common problem is a clogged fuel filter. Make sure you follow your manufacturers recommendations as to when you should change the fuel filter. This information should be in your owner’s manual. Symptoms include sputtering at high speeds or engine not starting at all. Always check the ignition system first, if that's ok then the next suspect is the fuel filter.
Next most common problem is the fuel pump failing. Most modern electric fuel pumps can be heard when you turn the key on. If you don't hear the pump running and your car will not start, it could be your fuel pump. The first thing a mechanic will check is the relay, which sends power to the pump. If this is operating correctly then the pump will have to be replaced.
Last but not least are dirty injectors. While the fuel filter does a good job of filtering the fuel, it's not perfect. Over time deposits and tiny particles lodge themselves in the injectors. This can clog and injector and prevent it from delivering the fuel the engine needs. It can also cause an injector to stick open and send too much fuel into the engine. A regular addition of fuel system cleaner like STP Injector Cleaner, or Techtron fuel system cleaner can help keep your injectors clean. Most gas stations, department stores and all automotive parts stores will have a good cleaner available. Add it to your empty tank right before you fill up and it will clean as you drive. I recommend doing this every 3 months to keep your injectors performing like new. Mechanics also offer a cleaning service where they actually disconnect the fuel line and flush cleaner through the engine. This is only necessary when you let your injectors get to a point where they can not be cleaned by a store-bought product. Regular use of a good in-tank cleaner will keep you from having to pay for this service.
Where do you buy your gas?
Believe it, or not, it can make a difference. Always buy from a well know national brand service station. Gas stations, which are not affiliated with one brand of gas, tend to get whatever is left at the end of the day from the delivery truck. One day them might get Texaco, and Exxon another. Also water mixed with gas will cause problems with your engine. The engine will not run right, plus the water will promote rust in the fuel system. I have experienced this when I purchased gas at some no-name gas stations. Your car will feel sluggish and sometimes refuse to run if there is enough water in the gas.
Octane rating tip!!!!
Putting super in the tank will not get you any more performance or gas mileage unless specifically recommended by your cars manufacturer. If your owners manual says put in 87 octane...... DO IT. You are throwing money out the window if you are filling up on Super or Premium and you only need Regular.
About The Author
Kevin Schappell maintains http://www.carbuyersclub.com where he gives advice on buying, selling, insurance, and financing. A mechanical engineer and car guy, Kevin has decided to spend his online time helping others learn about automobiles. To learn more about how your car works, Kevin has created http://www.mycarwizard.com.
kevin@schappell.com
This article was posted on December 23, 2004
Bearings
Bearings
by: Seamus Dolly
Since Murphy or whoever it was, took credit for the round wheel, rolling technology has changed somewhat.
Today, friction whether static or dynamic, is reliant on bearings to reduce motor or engine load. What is sometimes overlooked is the inherent features and design of a bearings to reduce temperature where it is not necessary.
The basic requirement is to reduce contacting surface areas.
More extreme requirements are to reduce vibration, reduce allotted space required to house such a bearing, and extend their life.
Needle roller bearings are used where the load is spread length ways, and a typical or common application would be the “big end” bearings of motorcycles.
Plain bearings are still used in the big ends, of cars and most other crankshaft scenarios. The principle behind a plain bearing is that the thinner a material is, the harder it is to compress or displace it.
Plain bearings, often called bushings, can be “steel backed” with a relatively thin coating of white metal applied to the bearing contact surface. This would be the common type in the automotive big end applications, and should a piece of offensive hard material contaminate the oil, it can be safely embedded within the white metal. Should it be small enough then it is not an issue.
More plain bearings can be of a bronze base with impurities cast or sintered into them. The purpose is to absorb oil or lubricant before application, and become “self-lubricating, for a limited time anyway.
Many years before the industrial revolution, bearings were made from anything available that was considered appropriate. Timber, sometimes from apple trees but not in any way exclusive to them, have been used in windmills and water mills.
Indeed, stone bushings were not unusual.
You’ve heard of the more expensive watches been said to contain “X number of Jewels”? The purpose of such jewels was to reduce friction and associated loads. This would be a loose example of metal to stone contact.
Thrust bearings are designed to work through a different axis, and may be ball-type, cylindrical roller type or a combination of both. Taper roller bearings are an example.
High temperature bearings have in-built allowance for expansion, or to put it another way; they have more clearance.
High-speed bearings often have “cages” made from non-metallic materials. Typically, this material is tufnol or plastic.
Incidentally, in low-speed, combustion-risk situations, the cages can be made from brass as well. This is to help reduce any incidence of “sparking” between the balls/rollers and the cage itself. The reason for a cage in the first place, is to maintain distance between rollers/balls, because it is only in the cases of high low to space ratios, where no space is needed that cages are unnecessary and these are low speed applications.
Other low speed bearing/plain bushings are also “steel backed” with a coating of P.T.F.E. or other plastic on them. Again, this is to give some self lubrication properties, as well as to reduce friction.
P.T.F.E. happens to be excellent, as it has a low coefficient of friction.
Bearing failure is primarily due to misalignment and contamination. Of course, there are many variables, such as instances where undue load/other mechanical failure happens to be the case.
A common cause of failure in the case of automotives, is lack of oil or insufficient oil pressure.
Absence of proper cooling, generally, will bring excessive loads.
Bearing failure is all too often due to improper installation or fitting practices. Indeed, bearings can be “on the way out” almost immediately.
Induction coil heaters are readily available from manufacturers to ease the fitting operation, and spare the bearings undue trauma.
Mechanical shock from abuse with a hammer has destroyed many new bearings and they are destined to fail, as little actual work will verify. Indeed, I’ve seen a case where a six-year old machine was overdue some maintenance, and got new bearing fitted six times in six months. It would have been best to leave it overdue; such was the fitting skill of the men involved.
Even without the hammer, contamination while fitting, poses massive problems. Allowing foreign bodies to migrate into the bearing will have a detrimental effect.
Once fitted even, contaminants from its oil/grease/air supply can make running conditions unbearable. Clean lubricants and environments are the answer, and in the specific case of oil; clean filters, lines and the oil itself, will provide an up-time saving.
About The Author
Seamus Dolly is the webmaster at www.CountControl.com and his background is in engineering.
This article was posted on December 19, 2004
by: Seamus Dolly
Since Murphy or whoever it was, took credit for the round wheel, rolling technology has changed somewhat.
Today, friction whether static or dynamic, is reliant on bearings to reduce motor or engine load. What is sometimes overlooked is the inherent features and design of a bearings to reduce temperature where it is not necessary.
The basic requirement is to reduce contacting surface areas.
More extreme requirements are to reduce vibration, reduce allotted space required to house such a bearing, and extend their life.
Needle roller bearings are used where the load is spread length ways, and a typical or common application would be the “big end” bearings of motorcycles.
Plain bearings are still used in the big ends, of cars and most other crankshaft scenarios. The principle behind a plain bearing is that the thinner a material is, the harder it is to compress or displace it.
Plain bearings, often called bushings, can be “steel backed” with a relatively thin coating of white metal applied to the bearing contact surface. This would be the common type in the automotive big end applications, and should a piece of offensive hard material contaminate the oil, it can be safely embedded within the white metal. Should it be small enough then it is not an issue.
More plain bearings can be of a bronze base with impurities cast or sintered into them. The purpose is to absorb oil or lubricant before application, and become “self-lubricating, for a limited time anyway.
Many years before the industrial revolution, bearings were made from anything available that was considered appropriate. Timber, sometimes from apple trees but not in any way exclusive to them, have been used in windmills and water mills.
Indeed, stone bushings were not unusual.
You’ve heard of the more expensive watches been said to contain “X number of Jewels”? The purpose of such jewels was to reduce friction and associated loads. This would be a loose example of metal to stone contact.
Thrust bearings are designed to work through a different axis, and may be ball-type, cylindrical roller type or a combination of both. Taper roller bearings are an example.
High temperature bearings have in-built allowance for expansion, or to put it another way; they have more clearance.
High-speed bearings often have “cages” made from non-metallic materials. Typically, this material is tufnol or plastic.
Incidentally, in low-speed, combustion-risk situations, the cages can be made from brass as well. This is to help reduce any incidence of “sparking” between the balls/rollers and the cage itself. The reason for a cage in the first place, is to maintain distance between rollers/balls, because it is only in the cases of high low to space ratios, where no space is needed that cages are unnecessary and these are low speed applications.
Other low speed bearing/plain bushings are also “steel backed” with a coating of P.T.F.E. or other plastic on them. Again, this is to give some self lubrication properties, as well as to reduce friction.
P.T.F.E. happens to be excellent, as it has a low coefficient of friction.
Bearing failure is primarily due to misalignment and contamination. Of course, there are many variables, such as instances where undue load/other mechanical failure happens to be the case.
A common cause of failure in the case of automotives, is lack of oil or insufficient oil pressure.
Absence of proper cooling, generally, will bring excessive loads.
Bearing failure is all too often due to improper installation or fitting practices. Indeed, bearings can be “on the way out” almost immediately.
Induction coil heaters are readily available from manufacturers to ease the fitting operation, and spare the bearings undue trauma.
Mechanical shock from abuse with a hammer has destroyed many new bearings and they are destined to fail, as little actual work will verify. Indeed, I’ve seen a case where a six-year old machine was overdue some maintenance, and got new bearing fitted six times in six months. It would have been best to leave it overdue; such was the fitting skill of the men involved.
Even without the hammer, contamination while fitting, poses massive problems. Allowing foreign bodies to migrate into the bearing will have a detrimental effect.
Once fitted even, contaminants from its oil/grease/air supply can make running conditions unbearable. Clean lubricants and environments are the answer, and in the specific case of oil; clean filters, lines and the oil itself, will provide an up-time saving.
About The Author
Seamus Dolly is the webmaster at www.CountControl.com and his background is in engineering.
This article was posted on December 19, 2004
Hydraulic?
Hydraulic?
by: Seamus Dolly
This may sound a little strange, but one day a man called in looking for some water for his car. That was not unusual, until he started to put it into his hydraulic reservoir for the braking system of his car. I was young and curious, but he explained that water would suffice. Many years later and some hydraulic experience, it seems that he was right. Or partly so!
It should be remembered that twenty-five years ago, and anywhere from there back, the properties of rubber seals were different. Not deviating, but going some way to explain where the hydraulic oil/brake fluid, actually went. The fluid and indeed all oils were much different and had little agreement with the rubbers available at the time. Leakages were commonplace.
Though many may frown upon it, water is still efficient as a medium for hydraulic pressure, in the very short term, and especially in the case of a braking system in a general performance automobile. It is the purity of the water that changes its usability, but anything will do in an emergency. Incidentally, pure water is an insulator, though I wouldnt have the confidence to test the theory on a personal level, with four hundred volts. Lol! Seriously though, this would be a reason why battery top-ups, should be done with distilled or pure water. Water hasnt been simply, water, for some time, or since it was chemically analysed.
Modern hydraulic oils have anti-foaming, anti-wear (component-wise), anti-corrosive, lubrication, and heat dissipation properties. They also have special properties that limit their ability to compress, which is the area that hydraulic excels over pneumatic. Higher control comes with the solidity of the fluid, much as that sounds like a contradiction.
Indeed, pneumatic control is favoured where there are risks of contamination, from the oil itself, and this is one of the reasons that air is preferred to oil in a lot of production systems.
Friction does exist, even with fluid, and this as well as compressive forces, is the cause of heat generation. Any such heat generation, can result in a change in the liquids viscosity, thickness/thinness, ability to flow. It can also have a negative effect on the various sealing arrangement, whether steel on steel, rubber/plastic and its composites (sometimes brass or bronze impregnated polymers), or indeed, where cast iron replaces steel. Incidentally, dissimilar materials in juxtaposition and dynamically, are better than similar ones.
Steel on cast iron, generally, is better that steel on steel.
So, while this man went for the only resource available at that point in time, the pressure generated should be similar, or the difference negligible, he would have been missing the lubrication properties that oils achieve. His saving, was the short piston movement, the relatively slow speed of his vehicle, and the limited time of usage.
Hydraulics are exceptional at what they do, and large forces can be transmitted through tight radii, and indeed, returned through 180 degrees, such is its theory with respect to acting equally in all directions. Hydraulic systems have replaced the numerous and purely mechanical applications, where the moving parts are essentially and consistently lubricated. This is even better in a corrosive atmosphere, where for example, salty air will compromise all exposed parts.
On a lighter note, if such an improvising individual was thirsty, then he would have a choice between his brake fluid reservoir, his window washer reservoir, or indeed, his radiator.
by: Seamus Dolly
This may sound a little strange, but one day a man called in looking for some water for his car. That was not unusual, until he started to put it into his hydraulic reservoir for the braking system of his car. I was young and curious, but he explained that water would suffice. Many years later and some hydraulic experience, it seems that he was right. Or partly so!
It should be remembered that twenty-five years ago, and anywhere from there back, the properties of rubber seals were different. Not deviating, but going some way to explain where the hydraulic oil/brake fluid, actually went. The fluid and indeed all oils were much different and had little agreement with the rubbers available at the time. Leakages were commonplace.
Though many may frown upon it, water is still efficient as a medium for hydraulic pressure, in the very short term, and especially in the case of a braking system in a general performance automobile. It is the purity of the water that changes its usability, but anything will do in an emergency. Incidentally, pure water is an insulator, though I wouldnt have the confidence to test the theory on a personal level, with four hundred volts. Lol! Seriously though, this would be a reason why battery top-ups, should be done with distilled or pure water. Water hasnt been simply, water, for some time, or since it was chemically analysed.
Modern hydraulic oils have anti-foaming, anti-wear (component-wise), anti-corrosive, lubrication, and heat dissipation properties. They also have special properties that limit their ability to compress, which is the area that hydraulic excels over pneumatic. Higher control comes with the solidity of the fluid, much as that sounds like a contradiction.
Indeed, pneumatic control is favoured where there are risks of contamination, from the oil itself, and this is one of the reasons that air is preferred to oil in a lot of production systems.
Friction does exist, even with fluid, and this as well as compressive forces, is the cause of heat generation. Any such heat generation, can result in a change in the liquids viscosity, thickness/thinness, ability to flow. It can also have a negative effect on the various sealing arrangement, whether steel on steel, rubber/plastic and its composites (sometimes brass or bronze impregnated polymers), or indeed, where cast iron replaces steel. Incidentally, dissimilar materials in juxtaposition and dynamically, are better than similar ones.
Steel on cast iron, generally, is better that steel on steel.
So, while this man went for the only resource available at that point in time, the pressure generated should be similar, or the difference negligible, he would have been missing the lubrication properties that oils achieve. His saving, was the short piston movement, the relatively slow speed of his vehicle, and the limited time of usage.
Hydraulics are exceptional at what they do, and large forces can be transmitted through tight radii, and indeed, returned through 180 degrees, such is its theory with respect to acting equally in all directions. Hydraulic systems have replaced the numerous and purely mechanical applications, where the moving parts are essentially and consistently lubricated. This is even better in a corrosive atmosphere, where for example, salty air will compromise all exposed parts.
On a lighter note, if such an improvising individual was thirsty, then he would have a choice between his brake fluid reservoir, his window washer reservoir, or indeed, his radiator.
Why Become A Truck Driver?
There are a great number of good reasons for someone to become a truck driver. First and foremost among those reasons would be the great pay. Did you realize that most truckers, their first year out on the road, earn an average of $35,000 a year?
Why Become A Truck Driver?
by: Joe Regan
There are a great number of good reasons for someone to become a truck driver. First and foremost among those reasons would be the great pay. Did you realize that most truckers, their first year out on the road, earn an average of $35,000 a year? And, that after just a few years out, those same truckers are making an average of $45,000-$50,000 annually? And finally, veteran drivers who own their own trucks make average salaries that are over $100,000 a year. What other profession can you get into, where the pay is that good?
One other great reason to get into trucking…….. is the chance to see some of this great country of ours. How many states have you been to? Are you one of those people who haven’t been to very many places? Well, get into trucking and you will have the opportunity to explore America. See why most people consider this to be not only the greatest country in the world, but also the most beautiful one as well. What other country has sights like The Grand Canyon, Yellowstone Park, the Great Smoky Mountains, the Pacific Ocean, the Gulf of Mexico, New England in the fall, and so much more? Want to explore America? Become a trucker.
One other great thing about being a trucker is the camaraderie that you feel with your fellow truckers. It’s a special bond, much like the bond that people who are in the military feel. You and your fellow truckers know that you are doing a job that is vital, Vital for the country. For without trucking, we would be in a heap of trouble. Do you have any idea how many products that you use, that are delivered by truck? The percentage of products delivered by truck is around 78%. So think about something that you use (car; food; pharmaceuticals; etc.) and there’s a really good chance that it got to you, by truck.
Trucking is not an easy job. I won’t try to make it seem like it is. For one thing, you’re away from home a lot. But even that, you do have some control over. For example, if you’re the type who likes to be home quite a bit, there are truck driving jobs where the drivers are home every weekend, and in some cases, there are trucking jobs where the drivers are home every night. It must be noted though, that some of those jobs don’t pay as well as the long haul jobs do.
Is trucking for you? Only you can decide that. If you think that it is for you, the first step is to enter a truck driving school. There are great schools located in every region of this country.
About The Author
Joe Regan
Find a Truck Driving School near you. http://www.bubbajunk.com/
You may reproduce this article as long as the authors name and link is provided.
Why Become A Truck Driver?
by: Joe Regan
There are a great number of good reasons for someone to become a truck driver. First and foremost among those reasons would be the great pay. Did you realize that most truckers, their first year out on the road, earn an average of $35,000 a year? And, that after just a few years out, those same truckers are making an average of $45,000-$50,000 annually? And finally, veteran drivers who own their own trucks make average salaries that are over $100,000 a year. What other profession can you get into, where the pay is that good?
One other great reason to get into trucking…….. is the chance to see some of this great country of ours. How many states have you been to? Are you one of those people who haven’t been to very many places? Well, get into trucking and you will have the opportunity to explore America. See why most people consider this to be not only the greatest country in the world, but also the most beautiful one as well. What other country has sights like The Grand Canyon, Yellowstone Park, the Great Smoky Mountains, the Pacific Ocean, the Gulf of Mexico, New England in the fall, and so much more? Want to explore America? Become a trucker.
One other great thing about being a trucker is the camaraderie that you feel with your fellow truckers. It’s a special bond, much like the bond that people who are in the military feel. You and your fellow truckers know that you are doing a job that is vital, Vital for the country. For without trucking, we would be in a heap of trouble. Do you have any idea how many products that you use, that are delivered by truck? The percentage of products delivered by truck is around 78%. So think about something that you use (car; food; pharmaceuticals; etc.) and there’s a really good chance that it got to you, by truck.
Trucking is not an easy job. I won’t try to make it seem like it is. For one thing, you’re away from home a lot. But even that, you do have some control over. For example, if you’re the type who likes to be home quite a bit, there are truck driving jobs where the drivers are home every weekend, and in some cases, there are trucking jobs where the drivers are home every night. It must be noted though, that some of those jobs don’t pay as well as the long haul jobs do.
Is trucking for you? Only you can decide that. If you think that it is for you, the first step is to enter a truck driving school. There are great schools located in every region of this country.
About The Author
Joe Regan
Find a Truck Driving School near you. http://www.bubbajunk.com/
You may reproduce this article as long as the authors name and link is provided.
Inside-Information Regarding Your Motor Vehicle Accident Insurance Claim
Here’s some “Inside-Info” you must know so you won’t be taken advantage of on your motor vehicle accident insurance claim and also: SO YOU CAN COLLECT EVERY DOLLAR THAT’S OWED TO YOU ! The following 8 are just “The Tip Of The Iceberg”:#1.
Inside-Information Regarding Your Motor Vehicle Accident Insurance Claim
by: Dan Baldyga
Here’s some “Inside-Info” you must know so you won’t be taken advantage of on your motor vehicle accident insurance claim and also: SO YOU CAN COLLECT EVERY DOLLAR THAT’S OWED TO YOU !
The following 8 are just “The Tip Of The Iceberg”:
#1. There are situations where you can collect for your “Lost Wages” even if you were paid by your employer and/or collected “Sick Leave” while unable to work.
#2. You can collect money and be reimbursed for any and all “Over The Counter” (non-prescription) medication you purchased during your recovery.
#3. Under normal circumstances unless a claim ends up in court (several years after impact has taken place and you are fully recovered) you do not have to agree to be examined by the insurance company’s doctor.
#4. There are many times that come to pass where you are entitled to collect the “Gross Amount” of your lost wages, not the so-called “Net After Taxes”.
#5. If you’re a housewife, you can often recover for “Lost Wages” (based on the “Value” of a maid or a domestic servant, who would execute the same work) which you could not perform due to the injury.
#6. You are entitled to extra compensation if you can prove you were forced to cancel a vacation and/or a special event.
#7. Under certain circumstances you may be able to make a claim (and collect for) a personal injury even if your state is “No-Fault” and you already have PIP (Personal Injury Protection) coverage.
#8. Your friends, and even relatives, have the right to execute statements which you can send to adjusters (and/or anybody you feel should get one) going into detail as to what happened to your body and what they’ve observed you’ve had to deal with (via your “Pain and Suffering”) during your period of recovery.
These statements can often provide you with an even greater dollar value - - when it comes to the calculation and then the ultimate settlement of your personal injury claim!
DISCLAIMER: The above article "INSIDE-INFORMATION REGARDING YOUR MOTOR VEHICLE ACCIDENT CLAIM" is to help people understand the motor vehicle accident claim process. Neither Dan Baldyga,nor ARTICLE CITY any guarantee of any kind whatsoever, NOR to they purport to engage in rendering any professional or legal service, substitute for a lawyer, an insurance adjuster, or claims consultant, or the like. Where such professional help is desired IT IS THE INDIVIDUAL’S RESPONSIBILITY to obtain it.
Dan Baldyga's third and latest book AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM (How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss) can be found on the internet at http://www.caraccidentclaims.com or http://www.autoaccidentclaims.com. This book reveals "How To" successfully handle your motor vehicle accident claim, so you won't be taken advantage of. It also goes into detail regarding BASE (The Baldyga Auto Accident Settlement Evaluation Formula). THE BASE FORMULA explains how to determine the value of the "Pain and Suffering" you endured - - because of your personal injury !
Copyright (c) 2004 By Daniel G. Baldyga. All Rights Reserved
Dan Baldyga - Author
dbpaw@comcast.net
AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM
(How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss)
http://www.autoaccidentclaims.com
About The Author
For 30 years Dan Baldyga was a Claims Adjuster, Supervisor, Manager and also a Trial Assistant. He is now retired and spends his time attempting to assist thsoe involved in motor vehicle accident claims so they will not be taken advantage of: dbpaw@comcast.net.
Inside-Information Regarding Your Motor Vehicle Accident Insurance Claim
by: Dan Baldyga
Here’s some “Inside-Info” you must know so you won’t be taken advantage of on your motor vehicle accident insurance claim and also: SO YOU CAN COLLECT EVERY DOLLAR THAT’S OWED TO YOU !
The following 8 are just “The Tip Of The Iceberg”:
#1. There are situations where you can collect for your “Lost Wages” even if you were paid by your employer and/or collected “Sick Leave” while unable to work.
#2. You can collect money and be reimbursed for any and all “Over The Counter” (non-prescription) medication you purchased during your recovery.
#3. Under normal circumstances unless a claim ends up in court (several years after impact has taken place and you are fully recovered) you do not have to agree to be examined by the insurance company’s doctor.
#4. There are many times that come to pass where you are entitled to collect the “Gross Amount” of your lost wages, not the so-called “Net After Taxes”.
#5. If you’re a housewife, you can often recover for “Lost Wages” (based on the “Value” of a maid or a domestic servant, who would execute the same work) which you could not perform due to the injury.
#6. You are entitled to extra compensation if you can prove you were forced to cancel a vacation and/or a special event.
#7. Under certain circumstances you may be able to make a claim (and collect for) a personal injury even if your state is “No-Fault” and you already have PIP (Personal Injury Protection) coverage.
#8. Your friends, and even relatives, have the right to execute statements which you can send to adjusters (and/or anybody you feel should get one) going into detail as to what happened to your body and what they’ve observed you’ve had to deal with (via your “Pain and Suffering”) during your period of recovery.
These statements can often provide you with an even greater dollar value - - when it comes to the calculation and then the ultimate settlement of your personal injury claim!
DISCLAIMER: The above article "INSIDE-INFORMATION REGARDING YOUR MOTOR VEHICLE ACCIDENT CLAIM" is to help people understand the motor vehicle accident claim process. Neither Dan Baldyga,nor ARTICLE CITY any guarantee of any kind whatsoever, NOR to they purport to engage in rendering any professional or legal service, substitute for a lawyer, an insurance adjuster, or claims consultant, or the like. Where such professional help is desired IT IS THE INDIVIDUAL’S RESPONSIBILITY to obtain it.
Dan Baldyga's third and latest book AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM (How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss) can be found on the internet at http://www.caraccidentclaims.com or http://www.autoaccidentclaims.com. This book reveals "How To" successfully handle your motor vehicle accident claim, so you won't be taken advantage of. It also goes into detail regarding BASE (The Baldyga Auto Accident Settlement Evaluation Formula). THE BASE FORMULA explains how to determine the value of the "Pain and Suffering" you endured - - because of your personal injury !
Copyright (c) 2004 By Daniel G. Baldyga. All Rights Reserved
Dan Baldyga - Author
dbpaw@comcast.net
AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM
(How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss)
http://www.autoaccidentclaims.com
About The Author
For 30 years Dan Baldyga was a Claims Adjuster, Supervisor, Manager and also a Trial Assistant. He is now retired and spends his time attempting to assist thsoe involved in motor vehicle accident claims so they will not be taken advantage of: dbpaw@comcast.net.
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